Showing posts sorted by relevance for query men's stuff part. Sort by date Show all posts
Showing posts sorted by relevance for query men's stuff part. Sort by date Show all posts

Saturday, September 16, 2006

On Wet Shaving, men's stuff part two



In the movie Bull Durham, one of the main characters states that “the world is not made for those of us cursed with self-awareness.” Wet shaving is just the opposite. Wet shaving is suited for the man who wants to elevate his everyday life above the pedestrian. It adds pleasure to the day’s routine, provides a pensive time for the thinking man, and results in a much closer shave.

First let me define wet shaving for the unwashed. Wet shaving is using a shaving brush, shaving soap and hot water to properly lather the face for shaving. It takes more time than the alternative shaving methods, but the results are a closer shave with less skin irritation and a more pleasurable experience.

I first became aware of wet shaving in 1985 when I attended mountaineering and rappelling school on Cheju-Do Island. I was an army sergeant at the time assigned to the Joint Security Area on the Korean DMZ. The school was a junket of sorts, a reward for good job performance.

Multiple courses were going on at the same time, and students from different courses shared the same sleeping barracks. Sharing our barracks were a bunch of Brits who seemed to be undergoing a more serious course than ours. For the most part they kept to themselves. They looked fit, with a bit of a roughish air, but they were disciplined, not unruly. What I remember most about them was that they had these beautiful wet packs (shaving kits) which seemed in stark contrast to the rest of their appearance and demeanor.

Their use of a shaving brush, and the lathering up of the soap with hot water got my attention. It struck me as an elegant solution to a daily chore. I remember it also made me feel dissatisfied with my can of foam and throw away razor.

Years later my wife gave me gave me wet shaving gear for my birthday. Since I was new to wet shaving, she gave me shaving soap from two companies (Geo F. Trumper and D.R. Harris) so I could decide what I liked better. For the actual shaving gear, she gave me an Edwin Jagger set (similar to the set pictured at the start of this post). Over time, she gave me additional gear (for Christmas or birthdays) so that I now own my own a complete travel set of Trumpers gear.

At this point I should say that wet shaving gear can be expensive (Best badger hair brushes can be pricey.) For many that’s part of its allure. It’s both snobbish and traditional. Some of the companies supplying the gear have been around for over 100 years and hold Royal Warrants. New comers to the practice will find a wide variety of products available.

For me the main appeal is that what used to be a tiresome delay in my morning, is now a pleasure. For the ten minutes it takes me to wet shave, I contemplate my objectives for the day as I enjoy the tactile sensation of the warm foam and smell of the soap. I also enjoy the feeling that I know something the great majority of men don’t know. Vanity also comes into play. The result is a much closer shave than that possible by using canned foam. And let us not forget, that when other men see your shaving gear at the gym, the invariable response is “Is that your gear? Coool…”

As for the actual mechanics of wet shaving, the secret to a good wet shave are simple. One, use plenty of hot water; and two, let the soap and razor do the work. Don’t press down with razor like you do with foam from a can. (In this regard it’s like golf where you let the club do the work.)

The shaving soap can be purchased in both hard soap (in a wooden bowl), or in cream (either in a tub or travel tube). A wooden bowl of hard soap can last a long time if you’re frugal minded. The cream is more expensive as you go through your supply much faster. Both types of soap are available in a variety of odor types.

There are various methods of shaving, and I won’t cover them here. It suffices to say that the shaver decides what method is best for him. Mine is simply three passes for reduction: One with the grain of the beard (down). The second pass is sideways, from the outside of the face (ears) towards the center (mouth). The last pass is against the grain (up). I lather fully for each pass.

After reduction I put on skin food. Skin food helps seal and protect your skin after the shave. After sampling different products, I finally settled on Trumper’s Extract of Limes Skin Food. I also do any finishing required using the skin food to elevate low level bristle in the fat of the cheeks or other difficult areas.

Finally on Cologne. If it’s a normal business day, I put on Trumper’s West Indian Extract of Limes Cologne which is very subtle. If I’m going out on a date with my wife, or a social occasion, then I use D.R. Harris’s Arlington Cologne which is more “declarative.” Both are citrus based.

Geo F. Trumper has been around since 1875 on Curzon Street in London, and has held Royal Warrants from various monarchs. Trumper’s is probably the single most recognized name in wet shaving and is considered by many to be the apex.

On the business of Royal Warrants; Royal Warrants are given to companies (tradesmen) who sell goods or services for at least five years to the British Royal Family. All business is conducted on a strictly commercial basis. (No freebies for the Royals.) The warrant symbolizes an endorsement by the Royal that can be used by the company. The Royal receives no compensation for the warrant. Currently, three members of the Royal Family grant warrants; Her Royal Majesty the Queen, the Prince of Wales, and the Duke of Edinburgh. The Queen Mother, recently deceased, also granted warrants. The warrants from the Queen Mother will continue for five years past her death.

What does a Royal Warrant mean in American English? By plucking down thirty bucks for a tub of shaving cream you can skip the six-degrees-of-separation stuff and claim you have something directly in common with the Queen.

The second company I’ve mentioned is D.R. Harris. D.R. Harris has been around since 1790 on St. James Street and like Trumpers has held numerous Royal Warrants. Its latest warrant was granted in 2002 by HRH Prince of Wales. It also has a colorful history as it is located in the “heart of the Gentleman’s Clubland” in London. Part of their product line used to be eye drops and Pick-Me-Up elixir to perk up a Gentleman after a hard night of frolic in the clubs. The eye drops have been discontinued, but the Pick-Me-Up is still available. D.R. Harris proudly boasts to having supplied the needs of customers ranging from “Ambassadors and Statesmen, Field Marshals and Admirals, to rakes and dandies – all those who appreciate quality and distinction.”

While the evolution of internet commerce is a welcomed benefit to those of us not living in London, there are three basic problems you will face getting started. One is that a website cannot give you the ability to actually smell or sample the product prior to buying. The best you can do is to carefully read the description of the product before ordering. The second issue is that for some reason Brit’s haven’t really figured out how to design effective websites. You will find both the Trumper and D.R. Harris sites cumbersome. Finally, you will be left the task of teaching yourself, by trail an error, your own best practices for wet shaving.

If you’re fortunate enough to live in the Austin Texas area, there is a specialty shop called Enchante that carries both Trumper and D.R. Harris. It’s owned by Charles & Jean Roberts, and if you set up an appointment, Charles will help you get started. He also does wet shaving clinics for new practitioners of the art. Charles is very enthusiastic about converting the unwashed heathens of the world to saved souls who practice wet shaving. In fact he practically militant about it. His mode of operandi can be best described as highly energetic and earnest. (Oh and a word of caution, stay off politics.)

A complementary word on Charles’ store…In January 2004 I was shopping in New York City during a cold front and I stepped into a store specializing in men’s shaving gear to duck out of the cold. I forget the name of the store, but it was across the street from the Brooks Brother’s store on Madison Avenue. I remember noticing the New York Store’s selection was not as intensive as Charles’ store in Austin. In short, you may find a pilgrimage to Austin worthwhile.

The only alternative I’m aware of to an Austin shaving clinic is to set an appointment and travel to Trumper’s barbershop in London which could be considerably more expensive and time consuming.

Finally, there are numerous providers of wet shaving stuff. I did not mean to suggest that you should limit your search to Trumper’s or D.R. Harris. I meant only to show the example of my own travel and preferences in this area. Additional merchants include Truefitt & Hill (which also holds a Royal Warrant), Coate’s, Taylor of Bond Street, and Simpsons Brushes, just to name a few. Some of the providers can be purchased at department stores like Nordstrom. And then there a number of companies that have sprung up across the U.S. like “The Art of Shaving.”

If by writing this I have saved one poor soul from the boorish practice of extracting foam from a can, or worse, electric shaving, then my work here is done.

John P.



Wednesday, August 26, 2009

Geo F. Trumper on Facebook, men's stuff part nine



Geo F. Trumper, considered by many to be the apex in men's wet shaving gear, has posted a link to my wet shaving post on their facebook page.

-JP

Tuesday, December 18, 2012

Christmas Gift Ideas for Men, men’s stuff part eighteen



“Fatherhood is pretending the present you love most is soap-on-a-rope."
-Bill Cosby

If you’re a woman and starting to face unease as to what you’re going to get your husband for Christmas, you’re in luck, this post is aimed at you.

Every year I speak to at least one friend who is frantically looking for last minutes gifts for her husband. The reasons for this is are: One, men usually don’t open up about what we want, and Two- men and women really do think differently.

So here are seven y chromosome gift ideas that I hope will be helpful-

Gift Idea Number 1: Scotch and Cigars- These can’t be beat as stocking stuffers or individually wrapped presents.

Scotch- There is a large variety of single malt Scotches you can purchase from $50 on up to several hundred dollars. There are also small bottle sampler box sets that you can break up and put into his stocking. (They’re similar to the small bottles they serve on airplanes.)

Cigars- Make sure the cigar is in a tube. Otherwise it will grow stale before he can smoke it on Christmas. Cigar accessories also make good gifts- compact leather travel cases, cigar cutters, small humidors, crystal ashtrays, etc. The key here is to avoid large sized humidors or similarly over the top merchandise. A small item is preferable as he can easily fit that into any area of his office or bedside table. (Oh and don’t forget to pack some wooden matches for him to light up with.)

If you already know his favorite cigars, you can purchase presentation boxes usually for about $200 to $300.

Gift Idea Number 2: DVDs- Buy him a DVD of his favorite movie or television program. Note that I said his favorite movie or television program, no chick flicks. If that means Chuck Norris, then that means Chuck Norris. Christmas is not the time to try to help him grow.

Gift Idea Number 3: A basic Hamilton Field Watch- Admittedly this can be a tricky item, but most men like watches, and I believe most men would welcome a field watch as an addition to their collection. And what better field watch than the original? Hamilton has recently lowered their prices on these basic watches and they can be purchased for as low as about $100 for a quartz movement model, to about $300 for a mechanical version.

Gift Idea Number 4: A Personalized Needlepoint Belt- It’s like being given permission to wear red socks with a black suit. Just make sure you match up the belt pattern to match his hobbies or interests. (Warning, a sense of humor is essential for this gift to work.)

Gift Idea Number 5: A basic clothing item like a white cable-knit sweater- Not much to elaborate here. We’re talking about a basic clothing item most men have had in their wardrobe at some point in time. If this specific item doesn’t meet the bill, think of some other basic clothing item he loves that needs replacement with an exact like item. For example say his favorite navy blue Lacoste shirt is becoming frayed, or he has an old pair of topsiders that are falling apart. I think you get the idea. Just make sure it's the exact same size and brand.

Gift Idea Number 6: Wet Shaving gear- Now this idea is risky. If he is a confirmed electric shaver man, or an analytic engineer type, forget about this one. However if he is the type that likes a little elegance in his life, or likes traditional stuff; this gift may take. To find out more about this, visit my post, “On Wet Shaving.”

Gift Idea Number 7: A Swiss Army Knife- Even if he already has one, trust me, he can always use another one. I have one in my desk, and one in each car. I also have one with a corkscrew in my travel shaving kit. That way I can always open a bottle of wine while on the road.

Finally, if all else fails, get him some soap on a rope. He will get the message and this will guarantee that he will be more forthcoming with his Christmas list next year.

John P.

Friday, August 10, 2012

Edwin Jagger Chatsworth, mens stuff part seventeen



"Wet shaving is suited for the man who wants to elevate his everyday life above the pedestrian. It adds pleasure to the day’s routine, provides a pensive time for the thinking man, and results in a much closer shave." 

The quote above is from my first blog post on the benefits of wet shaving in September of 2006: “On Wet Shaving, men's stuff part two.”

About 12 years ago, I received an Edwin Jagger Chatsworth shaving set from my wife as a birthday gift. The set had a shaving brush (best badger), an ivory handle for Gillette Sensor razor blades, and a silver wire stand that held the brush and handle. Earlier this year, as a self-gift for my birthday, I decided to update my home shaving gear.

Unfortunately over those 12 years, my old shaving brush had grown worn, and Gillette Sensor cartridge blades had grown unreasonable in price. I then decided to order not only a new shaving brush, but a new shaving handle that used safety razors.  I was already familiar with safety blades because I originally learned how to shave using my father's (now vintage) Gillette Super Speed Razor Handle. - By the way, I still have the vintage handle and use it even today to shave occasionally.-

I ordered both replacement items in the Edwin Jagger Chatsworth style, that way I could continue using the same wire stand.

After using my new safety razor for a few months, I can say that I’m very pleased. The Chatsworth safety razor has good balance. By safety razor standards, it would be categorized as medium aggressive. That means it has an average blade gap and angle, for blade contact with my face. It didn't take me long to master a "feel" for it.  The benefits are that I also get a closer shave, and save money by buying safety blades (which are cheaper per unit and last longer) as opposed to overpriced cartridge blades.


My new razor came with some Derby blades, however in the past few months I’ve also sampled BIC, Wilkinson Sword, Sharp and Merkur. Out of the lot, my personal preference is the Merkur blade made in Germany. In choosing a blade, it’s important to remember that the best blade for you may not necessarily be the sharpest. For well written piece on choosing a blade see "Choosing the Right Blade" at Shaving 101.

If like me, you've reached the end of your tolerance for silly prices on cartridges, I would highly encourage you to go "retro" and use a safety blade. However I do offer a warning. If you are a cartridge razor user and are thinking of switching to a safety razor, you should know that the transition could be difficult. It's very likely that you will cut up your face at the start. The reason for this is that you’re used to the inherent ease of a pivot head, and are probably prone to using too much pressure. Safety razors are very sharp and demand respect. If you want to learn how to shave with a safety razor, I suggest you start on a Saturday or any other morning when you can take your time and carefully develop a "feel" for your new razor.  As I stated earlier, it didn't take me long to get a "feel" for my new razor handle, but remember that a) I initially learned how to shave using a safety razor, and b) prior to this purchase I was already using my father's 1960's Gillette Super Speed Razor occasionally.

So am I saying "Au Revoir Mr. Gopher," to cartridges entirely? 

In a word, no. Unlike some wet-shaving-purist, I DO think that cartridge pivot razors have their place. The one obvious example is that TSA will not allow safety razors blades in the aircraft cabin. That means that if you don't want to check your bag, you have to pack cartridges. So we can't quite do a requiem mass for the cartridge just yet.  In my Trumper travel wet pack, I have a cartridge handle.

However my complaint against cartridge blades remains- their price is silly. I don't mind buying nice things and paying for their worth, but I do object to being robbed for small block of plastic with two miniscule strips of metal in it.  I also think the latest growth fad of adding more and more blades to the cartridge is silly.

Lastly, I will return to my warning of treating a safety razor with respect. If you switch you will probably not only nick yourself, but also probably cut your thumb over the next 12 month. I think every safety razor user has a story of deep hand cut because of careless handling of the blade. If you don’t believe me, Google it for some amusing stories.  My last cut occurred because, in a reflex action, I tried to catch a safety razor in mid-air after accidentally dropping it.

For shopping, here are some useful URLs:

The Gentleman's Shop - "Established in 1988 by Robert & Charlotte Johnston and trading online since 1999."  I have found them to be reliable stockist over the years with a good selection of shaving gear and related product.

Geo F. Trumper - Considered by many to be the apex of the shaving world.  Established in 1875 Curzon Street in London, and holder of many royal warrants over the years.  (I'm an Extract of Limes man myself.) Their web site has improved considerably over the past ten years.

D.R. Harris - D.R. Harris proudly boasts to having supplied the needs of customers ranging from "Ambassadors and Statesmen, Field Marshals and Admirals, to rakes and dandies - all those who appreciate quality and distinction."  I like their Arlington scent range.  Like Trumper, they also hold a number of royal warrants, and like Trumper their website has also improved dramatically over the past ten years.

For my personal story on how I discovered wet shaving and why I'm an advocate, please read my September 2006 post, On Wet Shaving.  "If by writing this I have saved one poor soul from the boorish practice of extracting foam from a can, or worse, electric shaving, then my work here is done."

-JP
Here you can see the crater like wear on the old brush (rear) versus the full head on the new one (front).


The Chatsworth Handle for a Gillette Sensor Cartridge is on the left, the safety razor handle is on the right.

The Chatsworth Safety Razor Handle Disassembled.


Top view of the Chatsworth Double Wire Stand, with my new safety razor. 

After sampling Derby, BIC, Wilkinson Sword, Sharp and Merkur, I decided the German made Merkur blade was my favorite.


Wednesday, August 31, 2011

Last chance for white bucks? men's stuff part fourteen


Labor Day is almost upon us, and so every good man asks himself the yearly question: Is it OK to wear my white bucks beyond the traditional end of summer?

The official answer would appear to be yes. I’m told that the 17th Edition of Emily Post's Etiquette, gives the go-ahead for wearing white after Labor Day.

Here in Central Texas the question may be non sequitur as we have only two seasons: summer, and summer will be right back. Because of this my wife is of the opinion that, in Texas at least, the deadline should be extended to Columbus Day.

So I'm leaving my white bucks out, at least for a little while longer. At worst I may be considered an unpolished eccentric by traditionalist, at best I may get my photo in The Sartorialist blog. ;)

-JP

"...he knew that to be careless in dress and manner required more confidence than to be careful. But carelessness was for his children."
- Winter Dreams, F. Scott Fitzgerald


PS- But you might want to start thinking about waxing your Barbour if you haven't done it yet. The wax is easier to work with while the weather is still warm.

Monday, April 13, 2009

A Minimalist Approach, men's stuff part seven



Some blogs I follow have started a commentary on what a man should carry on his everyday person. Some men insist on being loaded for bear, others prefer a minimalist approach.

I fall more under the minimalist category, or as my wife commented, "A functional minimalist." Here are my choices and their reasons-

1. A pen, a black Mont Blanc my wife gave me for my birthday. So that I don’t have to touch the germy pens offered at restaurants or stores.
2. Business Cards & Personal Cards in a thin leather card case; because you never know who you may run into, plus they’re useful for jotting down notes.
3. Reading glasses, an unfortunate “must” since I turned forty.
4. My mobile phone, a small Blackberry Pearl, carried in my sport jacket- or left in my car, briefcase, or desk if I’m not wearing a jacket. (I dislike carrying it in my pant pockets.) The Blackberry has my complete schedule, tasks list and rolodex on it and has become a valuable tool.
5. Wallet, a thin leather money clip, containing two credit cards, drivers license, health insurance card (for the wallet autopsy by EMS) plus ones and Fives for tipping. Again, the objective is no bulk, and carried in my right-front pant pocket.
6. At least one dog biscuit. They say money can't buy you love, but a dog biscuit can.

My main predicament is always what to do with car keys. To that end I like to wear a sport coat because it makes it easier to spread the personal items around thereby avoiding bulk in any one pocket. Of course a better solution would be to have a car and driver and never touch a steering wheel again, but that’s an entirely different conversation.

(Above, G approves of my "functional" minimalist approach- so long as I keep scratching his chin. Below, my everyday gear minus the dog biscuit- which G ate just before the snap was taken.)

Tuesday, September 29, 2009

The Seiko Professional Divers Watch, men's stuff part ten


If I had to choose one watch from my collection for endurance and serviceability, this Seiko Divers would be the watch. It’s been with me in multiple environments- in deserts, in forests, in saltwater and freshwater, and in the cold of both the Korean DMZ and Alaska. I was also wearing it in 1986 when I broke my leg on the worst airborne jump of my military career. My ankle required some metal implants to repair it, but the watch was hardly scratched.

Today, its roughest mission is to the gym.

It’s a quartz watch, and the second hand begins to mark off two-seconds intervals when the battery needs changing. It’s waterproof to 200 meters or approximately 656 feet (which means it can go places I can’t go); and has a unidirectional rotating bezel, with the first twenty minutes highlighted in bright red. The day-date is at the three o’clock position, and the day can be set in either English or Spanish. The crown, located at the 4 o'clock position, has a very efficient curving crown guard.


I’ve lost track of how many times I’ve replaced the flat rubber bracelet, and despite its age, the luminous hands and markers are still visible in low lighting. I have had the jeweler offer to switch out the scratched bezel, but I like the memories the scratches represent. Remarkably, the crystal is unscratched.

Today, Seiko offers many versions of this watch in both quartz and mechanical models. Despite the fact that some watch aficionados look down upon them, I highly recommend them. They’re durable, inexpensive and don’t have to be babied. (I actually had a case of 5.56 ammunition dropped on mine once, without damage.)

Seiko's most recent technical accomplishment was the development of a space watch for billionaire Richard Garriott that was worn during a space walk outside the International Space Station.

And while strolling down memory lane, here’s the oldest watch in my collection. It’s the Timex I wore in Army Basic Training right out of high school. I remember I bought it with the intention of it being a disposable watch; but miraculously it’s still with me. It not only survived several Army schools, but it also outlived several so-called G-Shock watches and an untold number of GI issue field watches. Today, I still use it while clearing and burning brush or doing outside work. I think every true watch enthusiast has at least one Timex in his collection.

This last photo is of my father’s last field watch, which I inherited after he passed away recently. During my Army career, he developed a fondness for OD Green field watches. As a result I would always buy him a new field watch for Christmas from the PX. When I left the service, the tradition continued and I would always include a field watch with his Christmas packages when he needed a replacement. He loved to putter and work outside and was very hard on his watches. This Orvis version of the GI watch was the last field watch he owned. Prior to end-of-year, I need to clean it up and replace the strap which is very worn due to dad’s continual outdoor use.


Update: Below is my father's Orvis field watch after I cleaned it up and placed a new NATO Nylon Strap on it.


John P.


If you're into watches, check out my other watch related blog posts:



Saturday, March 07, 2009

Golf Etiquette, men's stuff part six


(Photo Left- For Christmas my wife gave me a travel bag for my golf clubs, which I’m getting some use of. I’m happy to report that so far the airlines haven’t been able to break the tube case and damage my clubs.)

On a recent stay at my parents’ house, I found an old Golf Magazine from January 2005. One article in particular stuck with me, “How to be the most popular guy in your group,” by Michael Corcoran. And while it had many good points on golf etiquette, here is a short list of seven which every man should consider:

1. On monetary bets- Be considerate, especially if someone is out of their league (and do it without naming names). Limit the maximum loss to $50 bucks or so. Politely put a muzzle on anyone getting obnoxious with large stakes.

2. Pick up the ball- If you’re hitting eight on the hole, pick up your ball. Take a snowman on your card, and be considerate. Don’t slow down the play for your group or the group behind you while you “quintuple-bogey putt.”

3. Buy the first round from the refreshment cart- This is a nice gesture which the other members in your group will appreciate. Don’t just ask if they want anything, but rather make the offer specific- “I’m buying. What do you guys want, beer, soda, candy bar?” And tip the cart girl appropriately so that you’ll see her again.

4. Be humble. Don’t offer swing tips- If someone is having an off day and does plead for help, defuse his frustration with humor. Corcoran suggests using the old Sam Snead line, “You’ve got just one problem- you stand too close to the ball after you’ve hit it.” He also suggests you “remind him that no matter how badly he feels, Greg Norman felt worse.”
Which leads to-

5. Keep a sense of humor- If you’re the one having an off day, don’t be afraid to laugh at yourself. Use humor to keep yourself loose and not ruin the day for everyone else. Corcoran gave some great quips:
-When you leave a putt 10 feet short- “How’d that stay out?”
-When you airmail the green by 50 yards- “Bite! Bite!”
I’m sure you can think of your own favorite quips as well.

6. Give a hand- After the final putt on the 18th, give everyone a smile and a firm handshake; look them in the eye and tell them how much you enjoyed the round. If you’re a traditionalist and wearing a cap, doff it.

7. Pay up- If you lost, pony up your money promptly. If you won, win with grace and offer to use the winnings to cover a round of drinks or lunch.


Conversely, Corcoran made a list of Don’ts. Here are the top five I selected:

1. Don’t call a rules violation when you’re not playing in a tournament. Trust me, it won't impress, it will annoy.

2. Don’t take a second practice swing, and a third, with a divot.

3. Don’t hit on the cart girl. It doesn’t make you look cool, just creepy; and will only serve to keep her away from your group when you need more beer.

4. Don’t linger on a green practicing a putt you missed when the group has moved on to the next tee.

5. Don’t impress your group by making your mobile phone (tackily clipped to your belt) play “I’m Allright” from Caddyshack. This action alone will ensure your status as a single for life.

JP

Saturday, October 28, 2006

The TR250, men's stuff part four



I owned a TR250 (Triumph 250) in the mid-1980s and it was the funnest car I have owned. (And yes, it was even more fun than my Saab.) I bought it from Casner Imports in El Paso while assigned to Ft. Bliss, and I sold it while I was in college due to concerns over high maintenance cost. I dearly regret selling it.

The TR250 was a one year production car of approx 8,000 units in 1968. It was the transition between the under powered TR4 and the peppier TR6. The car had an in-line six cylinder engine with growling dual carburetors, and 15 inch Michelins to hug the road as you accelerated. The fact that it was a convertible only added to the fun.

My other car at the time was my old high school car, a 1972 Mustang Mach 1, Sprint Fast-Back edition. It was your basic muscle car. It could go like a bat out of hell, but God help you if you needed to change direction. The Mach handled like a heavy truck on high speed turns and I'm lucky I didn't kill myself in it.

The TR250 by contrast, could turn on a dime at higher speeds. It was not only fast, but it hugged the road like it was on rails. I felt in absolute control of the vehicle as I would put it through its paces on tight winding mountain roads. I think that was one of the key reasons I fell in love with it. The other key emotional response came from the cockpit smell of leather, wood, and the engine. I wasn’t removed from the driving experience in a plastic shell.

Unfortunately this beautiful machine came with a price. As anyone who has ever owned one of these 1960s convertibles can tell you, they’re temperamental machines who need a seasoned specialized mechanic and pricey repair parts. In short, it’s not the initial price that gets you; it’s the ongoing bank account drain.

I recently cruised the internet for TR250s and was dismayed by the high pricing of restored models and the absolute state of disrepair of the based price ones. To buy one today would have to be an absolute act of love. It would be cheaper to buy, say, a used Porsche and face less repair issues. You also wouldn’t have the issue of finding a capable mechanic, or rare parts.

I’m afraid that for me at least, that ship has sailed.

-JP


Specs for the TR250:

ENGINE- Inline six-cylinder, cast iron block, cylinder head, overhead valves. Horsepower @ RPM-111 @ 4,500.  Torque @ RPM-152 lbs.ft. @ 3,000.  Fuel System, Twin Stromberg CD175 carburetors.  Front Engine, rear-wheel drive.

TRANSMISSION- Four-speed manual, plus reverse.

BODY- Steel body over steel frame with cruciform brace.

TIRES- 15 x 6 inches

WEIGHT & SIZE- Weight 2,350 pounds. Wheelbase 88 inches.  Length 153.6 inches.  Height 50 inches.

PERFORMANCE- Zero to Sixty MPH in 10.6 seconds.  Zero to One-Hundred MPH in 39 seconds.  Top Speed 107 MPH. (To put this in perspective, at that time the average car went from zero to sixty in about 15 or 16 seconds plus.)

PRICE
Cost new in 1968- (esti) $3,395.







Monday, June 22, 2009

The Hamilton Jazz Master, men's stuff part eight



I have a new Hamilton Jazz Master Chrono, a gift from my wife. It’s a beautiful watch with a classic masculine appearance, reminiscent of the 1950’s.

The Hamilton Watch Company has an interesting history. It was founded in 1882 in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, but its real claim to fame came with World War II. During the war, the company stopped making watches for civilians, and concentrated all of its production towards the war effort. As a result, Hamilton became synonymous with the GI Field Watch. To this day, Hamilton carries a line of field watches and military style watches under its Khaki collection, however it is no longer American owned. In the 1990s Hamilton became a wholly owned subsidiary of the Swatch Group along with Omega.

In the past I had considered getting a Hamilton watch, but I couldn’t really get excited over the idea of field watch. I have owned too many field watches over the years.

Recently however, I noticed a collection of Hamilton watches in the window of a jewelry store and the Jazz Master Chronograph Auto caught my eye, specifically the rose gold case model. I went inside to take a closer look at it and was pleased with what I saw. The only flaw I saw was that the rose gold model came with a brown crocodile strap, and I prefer a black strap with rose gold.

That evening, I mentioned the watch to my wife and promptly forgot about it. She knew that I have been considering a new watch purchase- the IWC Portuguese Chrono, or the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso -but it hasn’t been an immediate pending decision. So imagine my joyful surprise when she gave it to me on the morning of a special event along with my morning coffee. (YES!) My wife even had them switch out the croc wristband from brown to black, so if it was perfect.


I’ve worn it now for about three weeks and have been very pleased with it. It has a solid feel to it, like a quality watch should. The chronograph (stopwatch) goes up to 12 hours, which is ample time for measuring flights and daily tasks. It has a dressier appearance than my Rolex Submariner and once I adjusted and stretched out the croc leather band, the Jazz Master was a comfortable fit despite its large size. (In its thickness, it reminds me of a Panerai watch.)

On the back, it has a sapphire crystal display so that you can see the inner workings, and “Hamilton “ is etched on the rotar. The automatic wind up feature (by motion) works fairly well. I’ve only had to manually wind it a little between wears.

The crocodile leather strap is adjusted and secured via a double butterfly clasp, and an “H” is etched on the outside of the clasp.


The chronograph controls and readouts are pretty standard. The outer-upper-right button (above the crown) starts and stops the stopwatch, and the outer-lower-right button clears the time. What is normally the sweep second hand on the face, is in fact the seconds-hand for the chronograph. The normal time sweep second hand is in one of the small inner dials. The other two inner dials keep track of elapsed minutes and hours.

In the close up photo, notice that the chronograph buttons are curved and serve as "de facto" crown guards.

Because of the three inner dials, the date function is moved to just below the 4 on the face, and yet the watch face remains classically balanced in appearance. The date can be set by either moving the hours forward with the crown, or faster by pushing an indented button (called a pusher) on the inner side of the case by the 10 on the face.


My one caveat is that Hamilton claims the watch is water resistant to 100 meters, but I wouldn’t put it to the test. It’s definitely a dress watch. I have a hard time picturing somebody actually diving into the ocean or pool with it (especially if left on the croc wristband). I wouldn’t trust the seals on the chronograph buttons, and saltwater could easily harm the finish.

Overall, the watch is classical in design, masculine, understated, and comfortable despite its large size. It was a great gift and I’m very pleased with it. Thanks hon!

JP

“Some people think luxury is the opposite of poverty. It is not. It is the opposite of vulgarity.” Coco Chanel

SPECS-
REFERENCE: H326460
NAME: JAZZMASTER CHRONO AUTO
MOVEMENT: Swiss Automatic Mechanical ETA 7753
POWER RESERVE: 42 Hours
WATER RESISTANCE: 10 ATM or 100 Meters (But I wouldn't put it to the test.)
REF STRAP: brown croc leather # H600.326.105 (NOTE- I changed mine out for Black)

Sunday, September 03, 2006

The Barbour Beaufort Jacket, men's stuff part one


If you’re an ex-military guy, you probably had an old comfortable field jacket or parka that you miss. The good news is that you can get that feeling back with a Barbour Beaufort Jacket. A Barbour is comfortable, durable, and good layering against the cold.

In the U.S., unless you’re a dog person or a horse person, chances are you haven’t been exposed to Barbour. At most you may have read an online reference to Barbour by someone trying to ape English style or behavior.

For the untutored, Barbour is a Brit clothing outfit best known for its wax jackets, in particular the Beaufort Jacket. (Think Jaeger LeCoultre and how it’s synonymous for its Reverso Watch.) The company has a history dating back to the 1890s and had a surge in popularity in the 1980s when prep hit its heyday. Thanks to the internet and its availability through Orvis, Barbour is also now going through a resurgence of sorts.

The Barbour Beaufort is a good field jacket and casual overcoat. Most men will take an instant love to it. What it is not, regardless of what some people on the internet tell you, is an entrance to high society or some other lofty perch. I have had maitre d’s and hotel clerks sniff down at my trusty Sylkoil Beaufort, completely unaware they were supposed to have been impressed at my good taste and breeding.

The claim to the Barbour fashionable-elite-standing comes from the fact that it holds three Royal Warrants (Her Majesty the Queen, The Duke of Edinburgh, & The Prince of Wales). The present CEO family member, Margaret Barbour, has also been named a Dame Commander of the order of the British Empire. So if you’re an anglophile, there you go.

Sylkoil vs. Egyptian Cotton

The Barbour Beaufort Jacket comes in several materials, but I will limit my discussion to the two waxed finish materials: Sylkoil (the Classic Beaufort Jacket)& Waxed Egyptian cotton (the Beaufort Original Jacket).

My old Barbour is a Sylkoil Classic Beaufort Jacket -pictured right. It is the darker (green) color of the two (almost brown), and is supposed to have been the original material used by John Barbour at the turn of the century. It reminds me of an Army Parka or one of the old Army OD Green field jackets. Since I intended it for my yearly visits to New England, I deliberately bought it too big. This allowed for comfortable movement while wearing heavy layering, such as a liner and a heavy sweater. After breaking it in, I sent the jacket to Barbour (in New Hampshire), and had the sleeves taken in by 3 centimeters. At the same time I had leather lining put on the cuffs, pockets and bottom of the coat to prevent fraying.

A word of caution on sending in your jacket to Barbour, expect a long delay. These guys aren’t quick. I sent it in during late spring of that year, and got it back in September but only after I had the Orvis clerk contact her Barbour rep about it. When I got it back, it had a “Rush” tag on it. I’m sure the tag was an attempt at humor.

As I had already worn the jacket for a season, I also had Barbour re-wax it, which brings me to the next item: it is a waxed jacket.

Some people, quite understandably, may not care for the idea of wearing an article of clothing that has wax on it. A waxed jacket also has its own distinctive smell which people may not care for. For those reasons the waxed Beaufort will never replace the LL Bean Parka with the U.S. population.

The wax also causes permanent creases in the material which will eventually become stress tears; and the wax wears out with time. As a result the jacket has to be re-waxed periodically. Barbour recommends the entire jacket be re-waxed once a year, however admits each individual may differ. They also recommend that touch ups be applied as dry spots appear.

If you’re going to have your jacket altered, make sure you wear it for a season before having the work done. The wax creases will shorten the length of the sleeves and alter the drape of the jacket.

In addition to having the factory do it, I have also re-waxed the jacket myself. The key is to it is: a) not make a mess – clean as you go, and b) allow plenty of time for the jacket to dry. Barbour sells its own wax tins for this purpose, and provides step by step instructions for the process.

Obviously not everyone will want to bother with a jacket needing this type of maintenance. (Some owners never bother with re-waxing and are content to lose the proofing. You can identify them by the faded appearance of the jacket and the lack of a wax shine.)

I originally chose the Sylkoil version of the jacket because it looked more like a field jacket. It felt more broken in from the start and draped better. I also found the darker color more masculine.

This year, I bought a second Beaufort, this time in waxed Egyptian cotton-pictured left. The "Beaufort Original" version is a brighter green and appears shinier from the start. It has a more “dressy” and modern (urban) appearance. It looks like a green raincoat. It also feels stiffer than the sylkoil version when new.
I intend to use it for business casual dress. I did not buy it over-sized, but I did buy the matching hood and liner.

This version is what most people think of when they think of a Barbour Beaufort.

In closing, the Barbour Beaufort may come with a small Barbour lapel-badge-pin in the pocket. This is a nod for people who need legible clothing. Owners with this need can remove the lapel-badge from the pocket and pin it to the corduroy lapel. This announces to the world that they are indeed wearing a Barbour Jacket.

Don’t wear the pin.

(For related content read "How to Wax your Barbour Beaufort Jacket," post dated November 15, 2007. It gives step by step insructions on how to wax your jacket, along with helpful tips.)


JP

Breaking in my second Beaufort
by a geyser at Yellowstone
Photo credit, The Little Woman

Sunday, June 10, 2012

On Cigars, men's stuff part thirteen



I recently sent some cigars to someone who had expressed a burgeoning interest, along with a note-

“My interest in cigars has given me much pleasure over the years and I’m sending you a small selection of some of my favorites. Hopefully among them, you’ll find something you like.  I find the pleasure of a cigar helpful during introspective moments.  I like to have mine on the back porch with Scotch while watching the sunset, or when deliberating a decision.”

As I wrote the note it occurred to me that he might have some basic questions about cigars- everything from how to cut one, to what gives a cigar it’s basic taste characteristics, and that gave me the idea for this post.

Cigars, like wine, come in many different offerings. The choice can be overwhelming for a beginner. To get started, it’s usually good to get a small selection and see what appeals to you.

In my experience, the richer-fuller (stronger) tasting cigars usually come from Honduras and Central America and Cuba; while the more mild tobaccos come from The Dominican Republican and believe it or not, Connecticut (shade tobacco).

Cigar Components

The outside wrapper leaf is the single most expensive component of the cigar and provides the biggest contribution to the flavor. (A wholesaler told me 70% of the flavor, but how he quantified this is a mystery to me.) The wrappers come in shades ranging from dark- Oscuro (Spanish for dark) and Maduro (Spanish for ripe)- to beige (Sumatra) and beige olive (Havana). I’m told there is also a “Claro” wrapper which is green in color with a bitter taste, but I haven’t encountered one yet. In addition to flavor, beauty is a key component to the wrapper leaf selection.

The remaining three components of a cigar are- the binder, the filler, and the cap.

The binder leaf “binds” the cigar together and comes from the upper leaves of a tobacco plant. It is immediately below the outside wrapper, unseen and picked for its strength and function.

The filler leaves represents the majority volume of the cigar and yet contributes the least to the flavor. All premium cigars (handmade) use “long filler,” this means the leaves are whole and intact. By contrast machine-made cigars use “short-filler,” with scraps from tobacco, wrapper, and binder. (Exception on filler and flavor- All bets are off on flavor if ligero is used in the filler. Ligero is picked from the top of the plant, has high nicotine content, and can seriously overpower the flavor of the cigar.)

Finally, the cap is at the end of the cigar, it “holds” the tail end of the wrapper leaf closed. This is the part you cut before smoking.

All cigars are “aged” before being sold. Aging mellows the cigar and the aging time varies by maker and type of cigar. For example, Carlos Fuente Jr. just released some limited edition cigars that have been aged for five years. The cigars were made from the tobacco fields filmed in the 2005 Andy Garcia movie “The Lost City." The cigars are called “Fuente Fuente Opus X The Lost City.” They come in beautiful presentation boxes of ten, at prices ranging $279 to $299, depending on the size of the cigars. (I’ve posted a photo of them at the bottom of this post. Most cigar companies do an excellent job when it comes to their presentation boxes.) Also, Montecristo (U.S. brand not Cuban) recently came out with a Vintage 1999 cigar. On a recent trip, I bought a few of these 1999 cigars from a trusted brick & mortar stockist and they rocked.

Finally, cigars come in different lengths and diameters “ring sizes.” One ring equals 1/64th of an inch. Usually the longer the length and the fatter the diameter, the cooler and fuller the cigar will be. Shorter lengths smoke hotter because of the less smoke travel time. I prefer larger "cooler" cigars.


Storage

Once purchased, some people further age their cigars in their humidors. A humidor is typically a wooden box lined with Spanish cedar used to store cigars. The humidor protects the cigars by keeping the humidity at 70%, and care should be taken to keep the humidor temperature at about 70 degrees. That's a photo of my humidor on the left, and you can plainly see the e-hygrometer I use to tell me the temperature & humidity of my stash. In the photo, the readings in the hygrometer are off because I had just closed the box after having it open for a while.

The reason for maintaining a constant humidity is that cigars can dry out and disintegrate; conversely, if exposed to too much humidity they will become too moist and not draw well and smoke unevenly. The temperature is important because beetles can’t live below 75 degrees, and mold can develop in warmer temperature. Properly maintained cigars can be successfully stored and aged in a humidor for several years.

Humidors range from the fairly inexpensive to the uber-expensive. There is even a humidor “appliance” by a company called Liebherr, which not only electronically maintains a constant humidity, but also a constant temperature. The Liebherr Humidor has an elegant design with stainless steel on the outside, Spanish cedar on the inside and a glass door. It runs about $2500 and may be worth it if you live in hot weather, don’t cool the house while you’re away, and have some serious money on your cigar inventory.

No humidor?

An alternate storage method for the occasional smoker is to store the cigars in an airtight bag inside the vegetable compartment of the fridge. I would recommend the fridge method even if the cigars are in tubes.

There are also travel cases available, ranging from simple one-cigar tubes to cedar-lined cases for multiple cigars. I have a cedar-lined-telescopic-leather travel case that I fit in my briefcase or the outer pockets of my Barbour jacket. It can hold up to three cigars of various lengths and has proved very handy during travel. (It also has a great "wow" effect when I pull it out and offer someone a cigar.) That's a photo of it on the right. You can plainly see the Spanish cedar lining. The crystal tube you see is a humidifier tube I keep in it, when not in use.


Smoking the Cigar


The bottom line in lighting and smoking a cigar is that whatever works for you, works for you. Having said that, here are some basics to help you get started.

On cutting- The main thing is to cut a smooth opening without completely cutting off the cap and damaging the cigar’s structure. Aim for cutting where the domed head starts to curve towards the side. Don’t be afraid of making a mistake, that’s how you learn.

There are various cutting devices available to the novice. I use a guillotine tool because they’re easy to use (the cutting comes from both sides simultaneously). They’re also easy to find in tobacco shops and inexpensive to replace should they be misplaced. I keep an extra in my Dopp kit.

But there are various devices and methods, and I encourage you to find your own preferences on this. (I once knew a guy that cut his cigars with his Swiss Army Knife.)

On lighting the cigar- Purists swear by wooden matches, but there are also any number of cigar-specific lighters available.

The main concern here is that a cheap lighter might impart the taste of lighter fluid to the cigar. If you’re concerned about this, make your first puff outward to clear the cigar of any impurities caused by the lighter. I have never had a lighter impart a bad taste to a cigar, but I have had cheap third-world matches impart sulfur.

To light the cigar, hold it with the end (called the foot) at about a 45 degree angle to the flame and rotate the it to ensure an even burn all the way around. This is known as pre-char, or roasting, or toasting. (Some purists insist that the flame should not actually touch the cigar, but I usually let it.)

Once evenly charred, place the cap in your mouth and gently draw in air while still holding the flame to the foot. (Or again, puff out if concerned about impurities from the light.) As you smoke the cigar, keep rotating it to insure the ash burns evenly.

Keep in mind that a cigar may take up to two minutes to reach its flavor, and try not to over puff it while it’s reaching that flavor state.

The ash, in cylinder form, can grow up to several inches long in a quality cigar, and should fall with just a light tap. If the cigar goes out, you can re-light it, but it will not taste as good the second time its lite.

Finally, how do you tell when the cigar is done? Answer- When you decide it is. Inexperienced smokers (with no nicotine tolerance) should probably stop short at about ½ of a cigar to avoid getting ill effects. More experienced smokers often take the cigar all the way down to the ring area.

I hope this basic information encourages the reader to explore the many options available in cigars and their simple pleasure. For further research, I would recommend Googling the term “Cigar 101.” You’ll find information ranging from “why some cigars unravel,” to how to select a humidor and maintain it. I would also recommend picking up newsstand copies of Cigar Aficionado Magazine and Cigar Magazine.

Important Caveat-

With cigars, even though you don’t inhale, you do expose your mouth and esophagus to carcinogens. You also inhale the incidental smoke generated by the lit cigar. As cautionary examples, you can look up two historical noteworthy heavy cigar smokers that died from oral cancer- General Ulysses S. Grant and Doctor Sigmund Freud. Also, for more information on documented health risks, click the link below.

National Cancer Institute on Cigars

My personal belief is that they should be enjoyed in moderation. What moderation means, I’ll leave to for the reader to decide. I believe each individual person is best suited to determine what’s in their own enlightened self-interest; and not the “nanny state.”

-John P.







"Living well is the best revenge." - George Herbert






Finally, a little humor on the Z-Plus Lighter Insert for the American Zippo