Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso, men's stuff part nineteen.

Let's talk men's watches.

In terms of quiet elegance for daily life, my Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Grand Taille (pictured left) takes the grand prize over all the other watches I own.  It was a Christmas gift from my wife in 2013 and I've grown very fond of it over the past year. 

As a watch enthusiast I had lusted over the Jaeger Reverso for a number of years, but was on the fence about my next major watch purchase between a Reverso or a PaneraiLuminor 1950 GMT. I had finally decided on the Reverso, and was actively pondering which Reverso model I was going to purchase when my wife gave me the Christmas surprise.

My wife’s choice for me was a simple stainless steel GT with only one complication- a small inside dial for seconds.  The strap is light brown alligator leather with a stainless steel butterfly clasp assembly.  I also have a second alligator strap in black. The watch tastefully understated. It's an inconspicuously branded luxury good that is likely to be recognized only by other watch aficionados/enthusiasts.

For a watch enthusiast, the Reverso requires no introduction.  Its art deco design still shines as brightly today as when it first made its worldwide splash with the café society in 1931. The watch was supposedly designed for British military officers who played polo in British Colonial India.  The polo players kept breaking their watch crystals during play, and the Reverso solved the problem by enabling them to “swivel” the crystal face into a reverse position- exposing only the metal back. Hence the name, "Reverso."

Originally the back was a plain metal surface, but with time, Jaeger LeCoultre began decorating the backs of Reversos with everything from the watch owner’s initials to elaborate designs infused with diamonds, enamel, and other creative resources.  One model, the Reverso Duo, has a second watch on the back that can be used like a GMT for a second time zone.

Today, the Reverso is still considered Jaeger LeCoultre signature watch and is available in multiple models, with a large variety of complications, and ranging in size from the small classic size measuring only (L x W) 38.5 x 23.1mm, to the new large Squadra models measuring a full 50.5 x 34.9mm.

In addition to the Reverso collection, Jaeger sports a number of watch lines on its official website, most of which are in traditional round faces.

The company, Jaeger LeCoultre, has been around since 1833 and has had quite a history with royalty, celebrities, and the infamous.  For example Queen Elizabeth II wore a Jaeger 101 movement on her coronation day, and the scoundrel mountebank Bernie Madoff had a Reverso Dou that was seized and auctioned off after his fraud conviction. 

One Caveat- Size Matters when it comes to choosing your Reverso

Having sang its praises; the caveat with the Reverso is its size.  For many men today, who are used to large watches, the original classic size feels too small- at only 38.5mm by 23.1mm.  I think this is the reason Jaeger introduced the uber-sized “Squadra” Reverso that measure a wrist imposing 50.5mm length and 34.9mm width.

Size then, not the complications, was my main concern when choosing my Reverso.  A couple of online bulleting board comments, from dissatisfied purchasers, had stuck with me.

One disappointed purchaser stated he had had to trade in his classic sized Reverso for a Squadra Reverso, at a significant monetary loss, because he simply could not get used to the small size.  With the classic, he had always felt like he was wearing a ladies watch.  (If you want to see how small it looks on a man’s wrist, Google photos of Mad Men’s Don Draper for the first season.)

A second frustrated purchaser also made a size comment. He complained his Reverso was too long in length, and uncomfortable.  What he meant was that because the Reverso pivots, the watch back case is flat and it does not curve to the wrist upon its length like some square watches do.  As a result the purchaser complained that the watch was always slightly uncomfortable on his wrist, and because of this, he didn’t wear it often.  I believe the model he was referring to was the Ultra Thin model.

 

From here you can see the flat back back surface, no curvature to the wrist. For the blog photo, I removed the watch's serial number which is etched on the bottom below the emblem.

Lastly, I had personal reservations against a Squadra Reverso because (A), I felt the oversized Squadra Reverso lacked the elegance of a more traditional Reverso, and (B), I thought the Squadra would be too big for my wrist. My wife had the same thoughts about the Squadra models when she was shopping for my watch. 

For me, my wife’s gift of a Reverso Grand Taille (GT) was the perfect “Goldilocks” size for my wrist.  At 42.2mm Length and 26mm Width, it’s both comfortable and elegant, and fits well underneath my shirt cuff.  It’s the opposite of today’s monster sized overstated watches.  At the same time, I don’t feel I’m wearing a woman’s watch.  I think my wife made a great selection with my Grand Taille.

If you want to get an idea of how it looks on a man’s wrist from different angles and distances, catch the 1999 movie “The Thomas Crown Affair.”  In it, Pierce Brosnan's character, Thomas Crown, wears a Reverso Duo, which is the exact same size as the Reverso GT.

As an interesting aside, the Reverso worn by Pierce Brosnan in "The Thomas Crown Affair" was actually owned by him (it's said hes' a big Jaeger fan), but the "Jaeger LeCoultre" lettering in the face was edited-out in close-ups of the watch. Presumably this was because Brosnan had a promotional contract with Omega at the time due to his James Bond films.  

 

With my pen and reading glasses, this photo provides size scale for the watch.

One last caution- in the online watch review by “The Talking Hands,” one of the online reviewers warned, “They should warn you that these things are made of butter.”  He was observing that just as the watch is extremely beautiful, it is also extremely vulnerable to scratching.  I have found that to be true even of my stainless steel model due to the high polish finish. You do have to be mindful while wearing it.

For more information on these beautiful watches, I've placed below a couple of YouTube Links.  

One is a short 13 minute review of the Reverso by “Talking Hands," specifically the Grand Reserve with an 8 day power-reserve-indicator on the back. This is the one where we are warned about the watch's "butter" like delicacy to scratching.

The other is a simple demonstration of the pivot action of a Reverso GT. Incidentally, it does show the "correct" way to flip your Reverso.  Push it in halfway (left to right), then flip the face to the back, then push the rest of it in sideways until it locks in place (again, left to right). This prevents accidental scratching of your Reverso.

-John P.

If you're a watch enthusiast, here are some additional watch related posts:

The Seiko Professional Divers Watch, men's stuff part ten

The Hamilton Jazz Master, men's stuff part eight

The Rolex Submariner, men's stuff part three

Gordon Gecko (Michael Douglas) wearing a stainless steel Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso GT with brown strap in "Money Never Sleeps," the sequel to the classic 1987 movie Wall Street.

.

A little late summer Rimbaud

With the onset of milder fall weather, I get to use my screened in back porch again for reading. Anticipating this, I began looking at my poetry books and I thought I’d share my favorite poem by Rimbaud.

I first became familiar with Rimbaud after reading a reference to him in Heavy Metal Magazine, and I later became intrigued by the various English translations of his French work.

Albeit admittedly a little risqué, in this poem Rimbaud reminds me of the Cavalier poets who had a much more realistic approach to the wooing game than the Petrarch sonneteers. While the sonneteer wailed and moaned and in general elevated the woman of his passion, the Cavalier poet recognized that the woman he was after was composed of living tissue, and most importantly that living tissue needs living tissue. (“let’s obey the proclamation made for May, and sin no more, as we have done, by staying; But my Corinna, come, let’s go a-Maying.”)  The pretentious elevated “eternal passion” of the Petrarch, was replaced with the new motto of “seize the day!”  Poor Phillip Sidney and his group could have learned from Robert Herrick and Andrew Marvell. 

In this spirit, let me introduce “First Evening,” by Arthur Rimbaud.

First Evening

                 (Première Soirée)

She was barely dressed though,

And the great indiscreet trees

Touched the glass with their leaves,

In malice, quite close, quite close.

Sitting in my deep chair,

Half-naked, hands clasped together,

On the floor, little feet, so fine,

So fine, shivered with pleasure.

I watched, the beeswax colour

Of a truant ray of sun-glow

Flit about her smile, and over

Her breast – a fly on the rose.

– I kissed her delicate ankle.

She gave an abrupt sweet giggle

Chiming in clear trills,

A pretty laugh of crystal.

Her little feet under her slip

Sped away: ‘Will you desist!’

Allowing that first bold act,

Her laugh pretended to punish!

– Trembling under my lips,

Poor things, I gently kissed her lids.

– She threw her vapid head back.

‘Oh! That’s worse, that is!’…

‘Sir, I’ve two words to say to you...’

– I planted the rest on her breast

In a kiss that made her laugh

With a laugh of readiness….

– She was barely dressed though,

And the great indiscreet trees

Touched the glass with their leaves

In malice, quite close, quite close.

               Arthur Rimbaud, 1870

*The painting is Picasso's Le Reve, a portrait of Picasso's mistress Marie-Therese, sitting in a chair, in a pose more suited for a Balthus painting. It was recently purchased by hedge fund manager Steve Cohen for $155 million from casino magnate Steve Wynn.  Wynn had previously agreed to sell the painting to Cohen in 2006 for $139 million, but the sale was cancelled when Wynn accidentally put his elbow through the canvas.  However, Wynn had the painting repaired and the two came to a new arrangement in March of 2013.  Glad it worked out.   -JP

Got Shame?

Recently Travis County brought a political payback indictment against Governor Rick Perry because he vetoed some funding for a DA Rosemary Lehmberg who was convicted of drunk driving. Governor Perry offered to continue the funding if she resigned, and even signaled his willingness to appoint another democrat to the office. But having no shame, Lehmberg declined to resign and the rest as they say is history.

Aristotle made the point that shame is a fundamental requirement for a society as it functions to self-police behavior. By bringing all of this back into the public eye through her political payback indictment, Rosemary Lehmberg has assured that thousands of Texas that had not previously seen her arrest video will now see it and rightfully cringe at her chutzpah. The one bright spot is that she didn’t kill anybody while driving with 3 times the legal limit in blood alcohol.

The second point is that the indictment is without merit as Perry executed his lawful authority to defund Lehmberg. There’s an old saying that a prosecutor could get a grand jury to indict a ham sandwich, and so the hyperbole becomes reality here. The reporting method treats the fact of an indictment as the primary news, and the merit as a secondary analytic question, making it difficult for people reading the news to grasp just how farfetched this indictment is. (The Wall Street Journal has gone as far as to recommend Governor Perry file litigation against the Travis County attorneys in their private capacities for their mischief.)

Third, while we can expect the usual liberal huzzahs, from a raw political perspective, tying your cause to such a fundamentally flawed person depicted in such graphic footage is simply not a smart use of political chips.

Apropos, one of the reasons Texas Democrats are now hurting in the governor’s race is that they rushed into bed with Wendy Davis whose one and only signature issue was late term (20 weeks) abortions, a gruesome cause from which she’s lately try to unsuccessfully back paddle from. Off hand I can think of at least 3 Texas State Senators who are both Hispanics and Catholics, who would have made much better gubernatorial candidates for the Texas Democrats. But instead they went with a candidate who has been called “Abortion Barbie.” Nice going guys.

Finally, the sophist argument being made by some of “a pox on both your houses,” –meaning a pox on both democrats and republicans- while providing a quick feeling of moral superiority, does nothing in terms of our stewardship responsibility. In politics you don’t get a custom fitted suit, you take what you can get off the rack. Sadly, partisan knee jerk reactions of the Roman Mob are now the norm.

I’m fully aware that Rick Perry is a big boy and that he can take care of himself, but ask yourself this- If a shoddy extortionate prosecutor can misuse the law and bring such frivolous charges against a rich powerful governor, then what can they do to you?

-John P.

“I would uphold the law if for no other reason but to protect myself.”
- Sir Thomas More

Below is the train-wreck-footage that Texas Democrats were so proud to share with the nation.


 


Update March 19, 2016: 

The Texas Court of Criminal Appeals dismissed all charges against Governor Perry in February. The Texas Court ruled that just as the U.S. Congress (or a court) cannot limit the veto power of a U.S. President, the Texas prosecutor violated the separation of powers by politically attempting to turn a veto into a crime- "When the only act that is being prosecuted is a veto, then the prosecution itself violates separation of powers," wrote Judge Sharon Keller

Ogden Nash Redux

This morning I was speaking with a man who makes a living by doing odd jobs and repairs, and he was complaining about his shrinking paycheck under Obama, not only in the form of less work opportunities, but the actual deductions from his pay in the form of added taxes and health care costs (I think he files quarterly).

His lament was almost word for word Mr. Nash’s famous poem:

One From One Leaves Two

Higgledy piggledy, my black hen,

She lays eggs for gentlemen.

Gentlemen come every day

To count what my black hen doth lay.

If perchance she lays too many,

They fine my hen a pretty penny;

If perchance she fails to lay,

The gentlemen a bonus pay.

Mumbledy pumbledy, my red cow,

She’s cooperating now.

At first she didn’t understand

That milk production must be planned;

She didn’t understand at first

She either had to plan or burst,

But now the government reports

She’s giving pints instead of quarts.

Fiddle de dee, my next-door neighbors,

They are giggling at their labors.

First they plant the tiny seed,

Then they water, then they weed,

Then they hoe and prune and lop,

They they raise a record crop,

Then they laugh their sides asunder,

And plow the whole caboodle under.

Abracadabra, thus we learn

The more you create, the less you earn.

The less you earn, the more you're given,

The less you lead, the more you're driven,

The more destroyed, the more they feed,

The more you pay, the more they need,

The more you earn, the less you keep,

And now I lay me down to sleep.

I pray the Lord my soul to take

If the tax-collector hasn’t got it before I wake.

-Ogden Nash

(1902-1971)

Snaps of my old battered 1975 book of selected poems by Ogden Nash-

In addition to his poetry, the book also contains many of Ogden Nash's hand drawn cartoons.

This one reminds of a certain politician I know.

Another of my favorites.

- JP

Merry Christmas 2012!

Nancy and me checking out the Christmas lights at nearby Johnson City

"And there were in the same country shepherds abiding in the field, keeping watch over their flock by night. And, lo, the angel of the Lord came upon them, and the glory of the Lord shone round about them: and they were sore afraid. And the angel said unto them, Fear not: for, behold, I bring you good tidings of great joy, which shall be to all people. For unto you is born this day in the city of David a Savior, which is Christ the Lord. And this shall be a sign unto you; Ye shall find the babe wrapped in swaddling clothes, lying in a manger. And suddenly there was with the angel a multitude of the heavenly host praising God, and saying, Glory to God in the highest, and on earth peace, good will toward men. "
 -Luke

 Merry Christmas from the Texas Hill Country!

Postscript: This was my last Christmas with Nancy, my Chocolate Lab. She passed on in January 2013. At 13 years of age, she was suffering from ill respiratory health and arthritis. I loved all my three Labradors, but from a pup, Nancy always held a special place in my heart.

“I think God will have prepared everything for our perfect happiness (in Heaven). If it takes my dog being there, I believe he'll be there.”

-Billy Graham

Christmas Gift Ideas for Men, men’s stuff part eighteen

“Fatherhood is pretending the present you love most is soap-on-a-rope."
-Bill Cosby

If you’re a woman and starting to face unease as to what you’re going to get your husband for Christmas, you’re in luck, this post is aimed at you.

Every year I speak to at least one friend who is frantically looking for last minutes gifts for her husband. The reasons for this is are: One, men usually don’t open up about what we want, and Two- men and women really do think differently.

So here are seven y chromosome gift ideas that I hope will be helpful-

Gift Idea Number 1: Scotch and Cigars- These can’t be beat as stocking stuffers or individually wrapped presents.

Scotch- There is a large variety of single malt Scotches you can purchase from $50 on up to several hundred dollars. There are also small bottle sampler box sets that you can break up and put into his stocking. (They’re similar to the small bottles they serve on airplanes.)

Cigars- Make sure the cigar is in a tube. Otherwise it will grow stale before he can smoke it on Christmas. Cigar accessories also make good gifts- compact leather travel cases, cigar cutters, small humidors, crystal ashtrays, etc. The key here is to avoid large sized humidors or similarly over the top merchandise. A small item is preferable as he can easily fit that into any area of his office or bedside table. (Oh and don’t forget to pack some wooden matches for him to light up with.)

If you already know his favorite cigars, you can purchase presentation boxes usually for about $200 to $300.

Gift Idea Number 2: DVDs- Buy him a DVD of his favorite movie or television program. Note that I said his favorite movie or television program, no chick flicks. If that means Chuck Norris, then that means Chuck Norris. Christmas is not the time to try to help him grow.

Gift Idea Number 3: A basic Hamilton Field Watch- Admittedly this can be a tricky item, but most men like watches, and I believe most men would welcome a field watch as an addition to their collection. And what better field watch than the original? Hamilton has recently lowered their prices on these basic watches and they can be purchased for as low as about $100 for a quartz movement model, to about $300 for a mechanical version.

Gift Idea Number 4: A Personalized Needlepoint Belt- It’s like being given permission to wear red socks with a black suit. Just make sure you match up the belt pattern to match his hobbies or interests. (Warning, a sense of humor is essential for this gift to work.)

Gift Idea Number 5: A basic clothing item like a white cable-knit sweater- Not much to elaborate here. We’re talking about a basic clothing item most men have had in their wardrobe at some point in time. If this specific item doesn’t meet the bill, think of some other basic clothing item he loves that needs replacement with an exact like item. For example say his favorite navy blue Lacoste shirt is becoming frayed, or he has an old pair of topsiders that are falling apart. I think you get the idea. Just make sure it's the exact same size and brand.

Gift Idea Number 6: Wet Shaving gear- Now this idea is risky. If he is a confirmed electric shaver man, or an analytic engineer type, forget about this one. However if he is the type that likes a little elegance in his life, or likes traditional stuff; this gift may take. To find out more about this, visit my post, “On Wet Shaving.”

Gift Idea Number 7: A Swiss Army Knife- Even if he already has one, trust me, he can always use another one. I have one in my desk, and one in each car. I also have one with a corkscrew in my travel shaving kit. That way I can always open a bottle of wine while on the road.

Finally, if all else fails, get him some soap on a rope. He will get the message and this will guarantee that he will be more forthcoming with his Christmas list next year.

John P.

Edwin Jagger Chatsworth, mens stuff part seventeen

"Wet shaving is suited for the man who wants to elevate his everyday life above the pedestrian. It adds pleasure to the day’s routine, provides a pensive time for the thinking man, and results in a much closer shave." 

The quote above is from my first blog post on the benefits of wet shaving in September of 2006: “On Wet Shaving, men's stuff part two.”

About 12 years ago, I received an Edwin Jagger Chatsworth shaving set from my wife as a birthday gift. The set had a shaving brush (best badger), an ivory handle for Gillette Sensor razor blades, and a silver wire stand that held the brush and handle. Earlier this year, as a self-gift for my birthday, I decided to update my home shaving gear.

Unfortunately over those 12 years, my old shaving brush had grown worn, and Gillette Sensor cartridge blades had grown unreasonable in price. I then decided to order not only a new shaving brush, but a new shaving handle that used safety razors.  I was already familiar with safety blades because I originally learned how to shave using my father's (now vintage) Gillette Super Speed Razor Handle. - By the way, I still have the vintage handle and use it even today to shave occasionally.-

I ordered both replacement items in the Edwin Jagger Chatsworth style, that way I could continue using the same wire stand.

After using my new safety razor for a few months, I can say that I’m very pleased. The Chatsworth safety razor has good balance. By safety razor standards, it would be categorized as medium aggressive. That means it has an average blade gap and angle, for blade contact with my face. It didn't take me long to master a "feel" for it.  The benefits are that I also get a closer shave, and save money by buying safety blades (which are cheaper per unit and last longer) as opposed to overpriced cartridge blades.


My new razor came with some Derby blades, however in the past few months I’ve also sampled BIC, Wilkinson Sword, Sharp and Merkur. Out of the lot, my personal preference is the Merkur blade made in Germany. In choosing a blade, it’s important to remember that the best blade for you may not necessarily be the sharpest. For well written piece on choosing a blade see "Choosing the Right Blade" at Shaving 101.

If like me, you've reached the end of your tolerance for silly prices on cartridges, I would highly encourage you to go "retro" and use a safety blade. However I do offer a warning. If you are a cartridge razor user and are thinking of switching to a safety razor, you should know that the transition could be difficult. It's very likely that you will cut up your face at the start. The reason for this is that you’re used to the inherent ease of a pivot head, and are probably prone to using too much pressure. Safety razors are very sharp and demand respect. If you want to learn how to shave with a safety razor, I suggest you start on a Saturday or any other morning when you can take your time and carefully develop a "feel" for your new razor.  As I stated earlier, it didn't take me long to get a "feel" for my new razor handle, but remember that a) I initially learned how to shave using a safety razor, and b) prior to this purchase I was already using my father's 1960's Gillette Super Speed Razor occasionally.

So am I saying "Au Revoir Mr. Gopher," to cartridges entirely? 

In a word, no. Unlike some wet-shaving-purist, I DO think that cartridge pivot razors have their place. The one obvious example is that TSA will not allow safety razors blades in the aircraft cabin. That means that if you don't want to check your bag, you have to pack cartridges. So we can't quite do a requiem mass for the cartridge just yet.  In my Trumper travel wet pack, I have a cartridge handle.

However my complaint against cartridge blades remains- their price is silly. I don't mind buying nice things and paying for their worth, but I do object to being robbed for small block of plastic with two miniscule strips of metal in it.  I also think the latest growth fad of adding more and more blades to the cartridge is silly.

Lastly, I will return to my warning of treating a safety razor with respect. If you switch you will probably not only nick yourself, but also probably cut your thumb over the next 12 month. I think every safety razor user has a story of deep hand cut because of careless handling of the blade. If you don’t believe me, Google it for some amusing stories.  My last cut occurred because, in a reflex action, I tried to catch a safety razor in mid-air after accidentally dropping it.

For shopping, here are some useful URLs:

The Gentleman's Shop - "Established in 1988 by Robert & Charlotte Johnston and trading online since 1999."  I have found them to be reliable stockist over the years with a good selection of shaving gear and related product.

Geo F. Trumper - Considered by many to be the apex of the shaving world.  Established in 1875 Curzon Street in London, and holder of many royal warrants over the years.  (I'm an Extract of Limes man myself.) Their web site has improved considerably over the past ten years.

D.R. Harris - D.R. Harris proudly boasts to having supplied the needs of customers ranging from "Ambassadors and Statesmen, Field Marshals and Admirals, to rakes and dandies - all those who appreciate quality and distinction."  I like their Arlington scent range.  Like Trumper, they also hold a number of royal warrants, and like Trumper their website has also improved dramatically over the past ten years.

For my personal story on how I discovered wet shaving and why I'm an advocate, please read my September 2006 post, On Wet Shaving.  "If by writing this I have saved one poor soul from the boorish practice of extracting foam from a can, or worse, electric shaving, then my work here is done."

-JP

Here you can see the crater like wear on the old brush (rear) versus the full head on the new one (front).

The Chatsworth Handle for a Gillette Sensor Cartridge is on the left, the safety razor handle is on the right.

The Chatsworth Safety Razor Handle Disassembled.

Top view of the Chatsworth Double Wire Stand, with my new safety razor. 

After sampling Derby, BIC, Wilkinson Sword, Sharp and Merkur, I decided the German made Merkur blade was my favorite.