The Rolex Submariner, men's stuff part three

Bond: You expect me to talk Goldfinger?

Goldfinger: No Mr. Bond, I expect you to die!

As a boy I saw the Rolex Submariner watch for the first time in the opening scenes of Goldfinger. In it, Sean Connery sets explosives at the bad guys’ base while in scuba gear, changes into white-dinner jacket, and then nonchalantly waits for the charges to go off. His clothing changed from commando-action-gear to sophisticate evening wear, but the watch remained the same; a Stainless Steel Rolex Submariner. I was hooked.


I’m not alone in this. If you carry on a conversation with a Submariner owner long enough, eventually you will hear some similar James Bond childhood influence.

The watch is about the size of an Oreo Cookie (40mm) and fits comfortably on the wrist despite its thickness. It’s water proof to 300 meters or 1,000 feet. (This means it can go places you can’t go.) It has a uni-directional black bezel to mark elapsed diving time. It also has an extension link on the stainless steel bracelet so that it can be worn over a wetsuit.

Most men will never use the diving features. (Lord knows I haven’t.)

What I do use frequently is the bezel, which is marked in minutes, to monitor elapsed time on flights or tasks. The glow-in-the-dark-face is also easy to read in low lighting situations.

Its technical specifications, while impressive, are of little relevance to aficionados. Instead, if you had to define its appeal in one blurb, it would this- the watch is manliness defined, period.

The watch is unaffected and masculine. It runs the gamut world wide. I’ve seen it on the wrist of a successful stockbroker in Manhatten; and I’ve seen it on the wrist of a bus driver in Rome. The Stainless Steel Submariner is the ultimate go-to-watch for a man. It can fit every occasion. It goes well with every outfit, every activity, and doesn't look ostentatious.

Aside from the basic stainless steel Submariner, there are also Submariner versions with yellow gold embellishments and blue faces, as well as a 50th anniversary model with a green bezel. As a purest, I’ve always held men who wear gold modified models as suspect. A man wanting an ornate dress watch would be better served to purchase a gold Oyster Perpetual Day Date or similar IWC, Patek Phillip, Zenith or Jaeger-LeCoultre offering.  (And please don't get me started with the after-market-bling-jobs I've seen in which diamonds or other precious stones are added to the watch face. Trust me, they don't impress.)

As a point of humor on this, I was once in the middle of a software sales presentation with the owner of a business and his key subordinates, when one his lieutenants cut in, “I don’t know boss, this guy is wearing a Rolex. I think he’s going to take us downtown on the price.”

The owner replied, “No, No, it’s OK. It’s only stainless steel. It’s the jackasses with the gold ones that you have to worry about.”

John P.

Postscript-

OK let’s answer the basic question: Is the Rolex Submariner really a super 007 action watch?  Is it in fact virtually indestructible? The evidence says yes.  Remember it is stainless steel, and waterproof to 300 meters.  That translates to about 433 pounds per square inch on not only the metal case, but the crystal as well.

However there are two caveats.

The first is that if you plan to use this watch for business wear, you need to be aware that the stainless steel on the Submariner will scratch, especially on the wrist bracelet. If you have nice things, you have to take care of them.

The second caveat is more important. Like Achilles, this watch does have a weakness – the winding crown.  While screwed in place, the crown guard does a great job of protecting it, but while unscrewed (for winding or changing the time) it is the one delicate part of the watch you will come in contact with.  Remember to treat it gently. This will save you the embarrassment and expense of an unnecessary repair.

An added benefit, chicks dig the watch

Labradors dig the watch too. When I can’t find my Submariner I know it’s because my Chocolate Lab “borrowed” it. (She is after all, a "watch dog.")


My Chocolate Lab is a little far-sighted resulting in nose prints on the crystal. Fortunately she periodically licks them off. (The watch reads 7 pm, that's really 2 am in dog time.)


"So when are we going to get a Rolex Pepsi GMT like Tom Selleck’s?"


Detail close up of my Submariner, sans nose prints, next to my wedding ring for scale.

My Love Affair with Watches, men's stuff part 16

My Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso 

My Hamilton Jazz Master

My Seiko Divers Watch

-J.P.

Easter Day with a Cuban gift; men’s stuff part sixteen

I celebrated Easter with a Cuban “Romeo Y Julieta Short Churchill Tubo” - pictured left. It was a gift from a relative (Mr. T) during Lent and I was overjoyed to get it.

I’m not sure if he researched it prior to gifting, but he hit a home run with this present. This Short Churchill was the top rated robusto cigar in the February issue of Cigar Aficionado Magazine. The filler, binder and wrapper are from Cuba, and it scored a near perfect 93.

A robusto is defined as a short-fat cigar, usually around 5 1/2 inches long with a large 50 or so ring gauge. It's supposed to be more intense than average, and recommended as an after dinner cigar. This Romeo Y Julieta was mild and pleasant, not the least bit overwhelming or harsh. I’m happy to report that the tube did its job and delivered the cigar in perfect condition.

Thanks Mr. T!

-John P.


For more info on cigars, visit my post "On Cigars, men's stuff part thirteen."

How to Wax your Barbour Beaufort Jacket

OK, a lot of hits and questions on how to wax a Barbour.

If you’re only now getting around to it, you will need to invest a little bit more time and effort into the process.

Ideally the jacket should have already been cleaned and re-waxed during a hot summer day. The hot sun and weather keeps the wax melted and hence easier to work with. In the fall or winter, the wax keeps congealing and makes the entire effort more taxing.

The supplies you will need are: a bowl of ice water, a sponge, a tin of Barbour Wax (pictured in this post), a pot of hot water to boil the Wax tin in, an old cotton t-shirt, and a hairdryer.

You will also need a good work area with a table (that won’t be affected by wax) and a place to hang the jacket. (I use a screened in back porch with a tiled breakfast table.)

The process is the same for a sylkoil jacket.

Step one, clean the jacket. Put the jacket on a work table, and using a bowl of ice water and a sponge, wipe down the outside of the jacket. The ice water keeps the wax on the jacket hardened and helps the sponge separate the dirt out. (Don’t use soap of any kind. Don’t put the jacket in the washing machine. I'm told that would remove the wax coating permanently.)

Step two, open the tin of wax and boil it in a pot of water over a stove, until the wax is melted.

Step three, using an old cotton t-shirt, work the melted wax onto the jacket, paying particular care to the seams, pockets and edges. (This is the part that’s harder in winter because the wax keeps solidifying on you). Ideally you should keep the wax tin in the hot water while working in order to keep the wax melted.

Keep the wax away from the corduroy collar, inside of the jacket, and inside of the pockets.

Keep your actions small and controlled so as to not make a mess. Clean as you go.

Step four, once you have re-waxed all the surface, hang the jacket up and use the blow dryer to re-melt the wax on the jacket and give it an even finish. This also gives the jacket a nice shiny fresh look.

Hang the jacket and allow it dry overnight undisturbed.

Please be aware the jacket will bleed excess wax for a short while after being re-waxed. So be courteous to others in this regard. For example if a stewardess asks if she can hang up your jacket, decline, and store it in the overhead bin over your own stuff. That way you don’t get wax on somebody’s sport coat or suit jacket.

Darwin Alert- On a humorous note, I once read a post from some person claiming to have thrown their waxed Barbour in the dryer and making a tremendous mess. Don’t go there. Use a hair dryer.

Purchasing Barbour Wax Dressing- In the U.S., the easiest way to get a tin of Barbour Wax is to log onto Orvis.com , and type in “Barbour” in the search field. That will bring up a page of Barbour products which should include the wax. The official Orvis description is: “Barbour Thornproof Dressing (SI8981)” The current price is $12.00. Instructions for re-waxing the jacket are written on the can.

Ongoing Cleaning- During the winter you may want to clean your jacket. Just repeat the cleaning step with the sponge and the bowl of ice water. Afterwards, use a blow dryer to dry it and to even out the wax again. You’ll get the nice shiny gloss finish once more.

Finally a warning note, it's too late to send your jacket back to Barbour for re-waxing. If you send your Barbour back this late in the year, you probably won’t see your jacket back until summer 2008. Those guys are slow.

John P.

(For related content read September 3rd 2006 post, "The Barbour Beaufort Jacket, men's stuff part one.")

Click here for a reader's question on smell.

The Fuss Over a Travel Watch , men's stuff part twenty

A couple of years back, my wife grew concerned about my travel while wearing an expensive watch.  She had read about a robbery in which a man had been shot for his Rolex.  It happened at a popular restaurant in Houston, at the same time I was visiting Houston with my Rolex Submariner.

At her uber-strong-suggestion, I started looking for an inexpensive watch to wear on certain travel.  

While searching, my 4 requirements for a travel watch were a) a bezel or chronograph to show elapsed time on flights or a task, b) a large display for easy reading, c) a stainless steel non-ostentatious case, and d) appropriate to every day business wear and working out.

The winner for me turned out to be an inexpensive Wenger (Swiss Army) Terragraph Men’s Watch with Swiss quartz movement. 

The watch came with 3 complications-

1. A 12-hour chronograph function, enough to track most tasks and flights.
2. A sweep second hand in a small inner dial (next to the 3).
3. A day of the month display

When asked to describing the watch, my wife said, “utilitarian.”

Cosmetically the Terragraph has an attractive white textured face with luminous hands and markers, a Swiss Army Brand Emblem at the 12 o’clock position, and a sapphire crystal on the stainless steel case.  It looks solid, and at 43mm, it’s an easy read even without my reading glasses. In that sense it reminds me of an IWC Portuguese. 

The one thing I could not abide was the cheap wristband it came with.  It was a very dark brown (almost black) calf leather band that was stamped to look like croc.  With time, the faux finish began to chip and show the lighter leather beneath. 

 

The original calf leather band.

There is also an issue with a leather band, namely smell caused by perspiration.  With time even a high quality band will begin to acquire an odor.  Most of us with expensive propriety leather watch bands (like Jaeger LeCoultre) are mindful of this and are careful not to wear the leather bands in summer where we’re likely to be outside perspiring or similar situations.  This type of care considerably extends the life of the band and lessens the need for an expensive replacement in a year or two.

The solution I found for my Wenger travel watch was to purchase a unique rubber and leather watchstrap from Rubber B.  They make watchbands that have alligator leather on top, with rubber on the bottom. I chose a 22mm with a “Jet Black” rubber base on the inner side, and alligator leather with a "Cognac" finish on top.  So when I travel, I have perfectly respectable leather band, which is not affected by perspiration odor.  The one caveat is that because of the unique dual rubber/leather construction, the band was stiffer and took longer to break in for comfort.

The small irony here is that the watch band cost more than the watch.  But in this case, it was well worth it. 

Still…

For travel where security is not a concern, my go-to-travel watch is still my Rolex Submariner.  Aside from it’s inherent indestructibility, the metal (non-odor catching) Oyster Bracelet come in handy.  I don’t have to worry about changing watches to work out in the hotel’s gym or pool, or if I want to go out for an exercise walk in the area I’m visiting.  At the same time the watch is completely appropriate for most business meetings or business dinners. I have the old “pre-ceramic bezel” 16610-case, which I believe more elegant than the present day 116610-case.  While both cases measure 40mm, the new 116610 looks more “bulky” due to its larger crown-guard and lugs which are almost twice the size of the older model. I find the new crown-guard particularly unaesthetic.

-John P.

Wenger Terragraph Men’s Watch

Stainless steel case

White textured chrono dial

12 hour chronograph function

Luminous hands and markers

Date display

Swiss quartz movement

Sapphire crystal

43mm

Original Strap-Dark Brown (almost black) calf leather strap, stamped to make it look like croc.

Claim it’s water resistant to 100 meters.

Price- $150 (estimate)

.

On Wet Shaving, men's stuff part two

In the movie Bull Durham, one of the main characters states that “the world is not made for those of us cursed with self-awareness.” Wet shaving is just the opposite. Wet shaving is suited for the man who wants to elevate his everyday life above the pedestrian. It adds pleasure to the day’s routine, provides a pensive time for the thinking man, and results in a much closer shave.

First let me define wet shaving for the unwashed. Wet shaving is using a shaving brush, shaving soap and hot water to properly lather the face for shaving. It takes more time than the alternative shaving methods, but the results are a closer shave with less skin irritation and a more pleasurable experience.

I first became aware of wet shaving in 1985 when I attended mountaineering and rappelling school on Cheju-Do Island. I was an army sergeant at the time assigned to the Joint Security Area on the Korean DMZ. The school was a junket of sorts, a reward for good job performance.

Multiple courses were going on at the same time, and students from different courses shared the same sleeping barracks. Sharing our barracks were a bunch of Brits who seemed to be undergoing a more serious course than ours. For the most part they kept to themselves. They looked fit, with a bit of a roughish air, but they were disciplined, not unruly. What I remember most about them was that they had these beautiful wet packs (shaving kits) which seemed in stark contrast to the rest of their appearance and demeanor.

Their use of a shaving brush, and the lathering up of the soap with hot water got my attention. It struck me as an elegant solution to a daily chore. I remember it also made me feel dissatisfied with my can of foam and throw away razor.

Years later my wife gave me gave me wet shaving gear for my birthday. Since I was new to wet shaving, she gave me shaving soap from two companies (Geo F. Trumper and D.R. Harris) so I could decide what I liked better. For the actual shaving gear, she gave me an Edwin Jagger set (similar to the set pictured at the start of this post). Over time, she gave me additional gear (for Christmas or birthdays) so that I now own my own a complete travel set of Trumpers gear.

At this point I should say that wet shaving gear can be expensive (Best badger hair brushes can be pricey.) For many that’s part of its allure. It’s both snobbish and traditional. Some of the companies supplying the gear have been around for over 100 years and hold Royal Warrants. New comers to the practice will find a wide variety of products available.

For me the main appeal is that what used to be a tiresome delay in my morning, is now a pleasure. For the ten minutes it takes me to wet shave, I contemplate my objectives for the day as I enjoy the tactile sensation of the warm foam and smell of the soap. I also enjoy the feeling that I know something the great majority of men don’t know. Vanity also comes into play. The result is a much closer shave than that possible by using canned foam. And let us not forget, that when other men see your shaving gear at the gym, the invariable response is “Is that your gear? Coool…”

As for the actual mechanics of wet shaving, the secret to a good wet shave are simple. One, use plenty of hot water; and two, let the soap and razor do the work. Don’t press down with razor like you do with foam from a can. (In this regard it’s like golf where you let the club do the work.)

The shaving soap can be purchased in both hard soap (in a wooden bowl), or in cream (either in a tub or travel tube). A wooden bowl of hard soap can last a long time if you’re frugal minded. The cream is more expensive as you go through your supply much faster. Both types of soap are available in a variety of odor types.

There are various methods of shaving, and I won’t cover them here. It suffices to say that the shaver decides what method is best for him. Mine is simply three passes for reduction: One with the grain of the beard (down). The second pass is sideways, from the outside of the face (ears) towards the center (mouth). The last pass is against the grain (up). I lather fully for each pass.

After reduction I put on skin food. Skin food helps seal and protect your skin after the shave. After sampling different products, I finally settled on Trumper’s Extract of Limes Skin Food. I also do any finishing required using the skin food to elevate low level bristle in the fat of the cheeks or other difficult areas.

Finally on Cologne. If it’s a normal business day, I put on Trumper’s West Indian Extract of Limes Cologne which is very subtle. If I’m going out on a date with my wife, or a social occasion, then I use D.R. Harris’s Arlington Cologne which is more “declarative.” Both are citrus based.

Geo F. Trumper has been around since 1875 on Curzon Street in London, and has held Royal Warrants from various monarchs. Trumper’s is probably the single most recognized name in wet shaving and is considered by many to be the apex.

On the business of Royal Warrants; Royal Warrants are given to companies (tradesmen) who sell goods or services for at least five years to the British Royal Family. All business is conducted on a strictly commercial basis. (No freebies for the Royals.) The warrant symbolizes an endorsement by the Royal that can be used by the company. The Royal receives no compensation for the warrant. Currently, three members of the Royal Family grant warrants; Her Royal Majesty the Queen, the Prince of Wales, and the Duke of Edinburgh. The Queen Mother, recently deceased, also granted warrants. The warrants from the Queen Mother will continue for five years past her death.

What does a Royal Warrant mean in American English? By plucking down thirty bucks for a tub of shaving cream you can skip the six-degrees-of-separation stuff and claim you have something directly in common with the Queen.

The second company I’ve mentioned is D.R. Harris. D.R. Harris has been around since 1790 on St. James Street and like Trumpers has held numerous Royal Warrants. Its latest warrant was granted in 2002 by HRH Prince of Wales. It also has a colorful history as it is located in the “heart of the Gentleman’s Clubland” in London. Part of their product line used to be eye drops and Pick-Me-Up elixir to perk up a Gentleman after a hard night of frolic in the clubs. The eye drops have been discontinued, but the Pick-Me-Up is still available. D.R. Harris proudly boasts to having supplied the needs of customers ranging from “Ambassadors and Statesmen, Field Marshals and Admirals, to rakes and dandies – all those who appreciate quality and distinction.”

While the evolution of internet commerce is a welcomed benefit to those of us not living in London, there are three basic problems you will face getting started. One is that a website cannot give you the ability to actually smell or sample the product prior to buying. The best you can do is to carefully read the description of the product before ordering. The second issue is that for some reason Brit’s haven’t really figured out how to design effective websites. You will find both the Trumper and D.R. Harris sites cumbersome. Finally, you will be left the task of teaching yourself, by trail an error, your own best practices for wet shaving.

If you’re fortunate enough to live in the Austin Texas area, there is a specialty shop called Enchante that carries both Trumper and D.R. Harris. It’s owned by Charles & Jean Roberts, and if you set up an appointment, Charles will help you get started. He also does wet shaving clinics for new practitioners of the art. Charles is very enthusiastic about converting the unwashed heathens of the world to saved souls who practice wet shaving. In fact he practically militant about it. His mode of operandi can be best described as highly energetic and earnest. (Oh and a word of caution, stay off politics.)

A complementary word on Charles’ store…In January 2004 I was shopping in New York City during a cold front and I stepped into a store specializing in men’s shaving gear to duck out of the cold. I forget the name of the store, but it was across the street from the Brooks Brother’s store on Madison Avenue. I remember noticing the New York Store’s selection was not as intensive as Charles’ store in Austin. In short, you may find a pilgrimage to Austin worthwhile.

The only alternative I’m aware of to an Austin shaving clinic is to set an appointment and travel to Trumper’s barbershop in London which could be considerably more expensive and time consuming.

Finally, there are numerous providers of wet shaving stuff. I did not mean to suggest that you should limit your search to Trumper’s or D.R. Harris. I meant only to show the example of my own travel and preferences in this area. Additional merchants include Truefitt & Hill (which also holds a Royal Warrant), Coate’s, Taylor of Bond Street, and Simpsons Brushes, just to name a few. Some of the providers can be purchased at department stores like Nordstrom. And then there a number of companies that have sprung up across the U.S. like “The Art of Shaving.”

If by writing this I have saved one poor soul from the boorish practice of extracting foam from a can, or worse, electric shaving, then my work here is done.

John P.

Geo F. Trumper on Facebook, men's stuff part nine

Geo F. Trumper, considered by many to be the apex in men's wet shaving gear, has posted a link to my wet shaving post on their facebook page.

-JP

Christmas Gift Ideas for Men, men’s stuff part eighteen

“Fatherhood is pretending the present you love most is soap-on-a-rope."
-Bill Cosby

If you’re a woman and starting to face unease as to what you’re going to get your husband for Christmas, you’re in luck, this post is aimed at you.

Every year I speak to at least one friend who is frantically looking for last minutes gifts for her husband. The reasons for this is are: One, men usually don’t open up about what we want, and Two- men and women really do think differently.

So here are seven y chromosome gift ideas that I hope will be helpful-

Gift Idea Number 1: Scotch and Cigars- These can’t be beat as stocking stuffers or individually wrapped presents.

Scotch- There is a large variety of single malt Scotches you can purchase from $50 on up to several hundred dollars. There are also small bottle sampler box sets that you can break up and put into his stocking. (They’re similar to the small bottles they serve on airplanes.)

Cigars- Make sure the cigar is in a tube. Otherwise it will grow stale before he can smoke it on Christmas. Cigar accessories also make good gifts- compact leather travel cases, cigar cutters, small humidors, crystal ashtrays, etc. The key here is to avoid large sized humidors or similarly over the top merchandise. A small item is preferable as he can easily fit that into any area of his office or bedside table. (Oh and don’t forget to pack some wooden matches for him to light up with.)

If you already know his favorite cigars, you can purchase presentation boxes usually for about $200 to $300.

Gift Idea Number 2: DVDs- Buy him a DVD of his favorite movie or television program. Note that I said his favorite movie or television program, no chick flicks. If that means Chuck Norris, then that means Chuck Norris. Christmas is not the time to try to help him grow.

Gift Idea Number 3: A basic Hamilton Field Watch- Admittedly this can be a tricky item, but most men like watches, and I believe most men would welcome a field watch as an addition to their collection. And what better field watch than the original? Hamilton has recently lowered their prices on these basic watches and they can be purchased for as low as about $100 for a quartz movement model, to about $300 for a mechanical version.

Gift Idea Number 4: A Personalized Needlepoint Belt- It’s like being given permission to wear red socks with a black suit. Just make sure you match up the belt pattern to match his hobbies or interests. (Warning, a sense of humor is essential for this gift to work.)

Gift Idea Number 5: A basic clothing item like a white cable-knit sweater- Not much to elaborate here. We’re talking about a basic clothing item most men have had in their wardrobe at some point in time. If this specific item doesn’t meet the bill, think of some other basic clothing item he loves that needs replacement with an exact like item. For example say his favorite navy blue Lacoste shirt is becoming frayed, or he has an old pair of topsiders that are falling apart. I think you get the idea. Just make sure it's the exact same size and brand.

Gift Idea Number 6: Wet Shaving gear- Now this idea is risky. If he is a confirmed electric shaver man, or an analytic engineer type, forget about this one. However if he is the type that likes a little elegance in his life, or likes traditional stuff; this gift may take. To find out more about this, visit my post, “On Wet Shaving.”

Gift Idea Number 7: A Swiss Army Knife- Even if he already has one, trust me, he can always use another one. I have one in my desk, and one in each car. I also have one with a corkscrew in my travel shaving kit. That way I can always open a bottle of wine while on the road.

Finally, if all else fails, get him some soap on a rope. He will get the message and this will guarantee that he will be more forthcoming with his Christmas list next year.

John P.