Edwin Jagger Chatsworth, mens stuff part seventeen

"Wet shaving is suited for the man who wants to elevate his everyday life above the pedestrian. It adds pleasure to the day’s routine, provides a pensive time for the thinking man, and results in a much closer shave." 

The quote above is from my first blog post on the benefits of wet shaving in September of 2006: “On Wet Shaving, men's stuff part two.”

About 12 years ago, I received an Edwin Jagger Chatsworth shaving set from my wife as a birthday gift. The set had a shaving brush (best badger), an ivory handle for Gillette Sensor razor blades, and a silver wire stand that held the brush and handle. Earlier this year, as a self-gift for my birthday, I decided to update my home shaving gear.

Unfortunately over those 12 years, my old shaving brush had grown worn, and Gillette Sensor cartridge blades had grown unreasonable in price. I then decided to order not only a new shaving brush, but a new shaving handle that used safety razors.  I was already familiar with safety blades because I originally learned how to shave using my father's (now vintage) Gillette Super Speed Razor Handle. - By the way, I still have the vintage handle and use it even today to shave occasionally.-

I ordered both replacement items in the Edwin Jagger Chatsworth style, that way I could continue using the same wire stand.

After using my new safety razor for a few months, I can say that I’m very pleased. The Chatsworth safety razor has good balance. By safety razor standards, it would be categorized as medium aggressive. That means it has an average blade gap and angle, for blade contact with my face. It didn't take me long to master a "feel" for it.  The benefits are that I also get a closer shave, and save money by buying safety blades (which are cheaper per unit and last longer) as opposed to overpriced cartridge blades.


My new razor came with some Derby blades, however in the past few months I’ve also sampled BIC, Wilkinson Sword, Sharp and Merkur. Out of the lot, my personal preference is the Merkur blade made in Germany. In choosing a blade, it’s important to remember that the best blade for you may not necessarily be the sharpest. For well written piece on choosing a blade see "Choosing the Right Blade" at Shaving 101.

If like me, you've reached the end of your tolerance for silly prices on cartridges, I would highly encourage you to go "retro" and use a safety blade. However I do offer a warning. If you are a cartridge razor user and are thinking of switching to a safety razor, you should know that the transition could be difficult. It's very likely that you will cut up your face at the start. The reason for this is that you’re used to the inherent ease of a pivot head, and are probably prone to using too much pressure. Safety razors are very sharp and demand respect. If you want to learn how to shave with a safety razor, I suggest you start on a Saturday or any other morning when you can take your time and carefully develop a "feel" for your new razor.  As I stated earlier, it didn't take me long to get a "feel" for my new razor handle, but remember that a) I initially learned how to shave using a safety razor, and b) prior to this purchase I was already using my father's 1960's Gillette Super Speed Razor occasionally.

So am I saying "Au Revoir Mr. Gopher," to cartridges entirely? 

In a word, no. Unlike some wet-shaving-purist, I DO think that cartridge pivot razors have their place. The one obvious example is that TSA will not allow safety razors blades in the aircraft cabin. That means that if you don't want to check your bag, you have to pack cartridges. So we can't quite do a requiem mass for the cartridge just yet.  In my Trumper travel wet pack, I have a cartridge handle.

However my complaint against cartridge blades remains- their price is silly. I don't mind buying nice things and paying for their worth, but I do object to being robbed for small block of plastic with two miniscule strips of metal in it.  I also think the latest growth fad of adding more and more blades to the cartridge is silly.

Lastly, I will return to my warning of treating a safety razor with respect. If you switch you will probably not only nick yourself, but also probably cut your thumb over the next 12 month. I think every safety razor user has a story of deep hand cut because of careless handling of the blade. If you don’t believe me, Google it for some amusing stories.  My last cut occurred because, in a reflex action, I tried to catch a safety razor in mid-air after accidentally dropping it.

For shopping, here are some useful URLs:

The Gentleman's Shop - "Established in 1988 by Robert & Charlotte Johnston and trading online since 1999."  I have found them to be reliable stockist over the years with a good selection of shaving gear and related product.

Geo F. Trumper - Considered by many to be the apex of the shaving world.  Established in 1875 Curzon Street in London, and holder of many royal warrants over the years.  (I'm an Extract of Limes man myself.) Their web site has improved considerably over the past ten years.

D.R. Harris - D.R. Harris proudly boasts to having supplied the needs of customers ranging from "Ambassadors and Statesmen, Field Marshals and Admirals, to rakes and dandies - all those who appreciate quality and distinction."  I like their Arlington scent range.  Like Trumper, they also hold a number of royal warrants, and like Trumper their website has also improved dramatically over the past ten years.

For my personal story on how I discovered wet shaving and why I'm an advocate, please read my September 2006 post, On Wet Shaving.  "If by writing this I have saved one poor soul from the boorish practice of extracting foam from a can, or worse, electric shaving, then my work here is done."

-JP

Here you can see the crater like wear on the old brush (rear) versus the full head on the new one (front).

The Chatsworth Handle for a Gillette Sensor Cartridge is on the left, the safety razor handle is on the right.

The Chatsworth Safety Razor Handle Disassembled.

Top view of the Chatsworth Double Wire Stand, with my new safety razor. 

After sampling Derby, BIC, Wilkinson Sword, Sharp and Merkur, I decided the German made Merkur blade was my favorite.

On Cigars, men's stuff part thirteen

I recently sent some cigars to someone who had expressed a burgeoning interest, along with a note-

“My interest in cigars has given me much pleasure over the years and I’m sending you a small selection of some of my favorites. Hopefully among them, you’ll find something you like.  I find the pleasure of a cigar helpful during introspective moments.  I like to have mine on the back porch with Scotch while watching the sunset, or when deliberating a decision.”

As I wrote the note it occurred to me that he might have some basic questions about cigars- everything from how to cut one, to what gives a cigar it’s basic taste characteristics, and that gave me the idea for this post.

Cigars, like wine, come in many different offerings. The choice can be overwhelming for a beginner. To get started, it’s usually good to get a small selection and see what appeals to you.

In my experience, the richer-fuller (stronger) tasting cigars usually come from Honduras and Central America and Cuba; while the more mild tobaccos come from The Dominican Republican and believe it or not, Connecticut (shade tobacco).

Cigar Components

The outside wrapper leaf is the single most expensive component of the cigar and provides the biggest contribution to the flavor. (A wholesaler told me 70% of the flavor, but how he quantified this is a mystery to me.) The wrappers come in shades ranging from dark- Oscuro (Spanish for dark) and Maduro (Spanish for ripe)- to beige (Sumatra) and beige olive (Havana). I’m told there is also a “Claro” wrapper which is green in color with a bitter taste, but I haven’t encountered one yet. In addition to flavor, beauty is a key component to the wrapper leaf selection.

The remaining three components of a cigar are- the binder, the filler, and the cap.

The binder leaf “binds” the cigar together and comes from the upper leaves of a tobacco plant. It is immediately below the outside wrapper, unseen and picked for its strength and function.

The filler leaves represents the majority volume of the cigar and yet contributes the least to the flavor. All premium cigars (handmade) use “long filler,” this means the leaves are whole and intact. By contrast machine-made cigars use “short-filler,” with scraps from tobacco, wrapper, and binder. (Exception on filler and flavor- All bets are off on flavor if ligero is used in the filler. Ligero is picked from the top of the plant, has high nicotine content, and can seriously overpower the flavor of the cigar.)

Finally, the cap is at the end of the cigar, it “holds” the tail end of the wrapper leaf closed. This is the part you cut before smoking.

All cigars are “aged” before being sold. Aging mellows the cigar and the aging time varies by maker and type of cigar. For example, Carlos Fuente Jr. just released some limited edition cigars that have been aged for five years. The cigars were made from the tobacco fields filmed in the 2005 Andy Garcia movie “The Lost City." The cigars are called “Fuente Fuente Opus X The Lost City.” They come in beautiful presentation boxes of ten, at prices ranging $279 to $299, depending on the size of the cigars. (I’ve posted a photo of them at the bottom of this post. Most cigar companies do an excellent job when it comes to their presentation boxes.) Also, Montecristo (U.S. brand not Cuban) recently came out with a Vintage 1999 cigar. On a recent trip, I bought a few of these 1999 cigars from a trusted brick & mortar stockist and they rocked.

Finally, cigars come in different lengths and diameters “ring sizes.” One ring equals 1/64th of an inch. Usually the longer the length and the fatter the diameter, the cooler and fuller the cigar will be. Shorter lengths smoke hotter because of the less smoke travel time. I prefer larger "cooler" cigars.


Storage

Once purchased, some people further age their cigars in their humidors. A humidor is typically a wooden box lined with Spanish cedar used to store cigars. The humidor protects the cigars by keeping the humidity at 70%, and care should be taken to keep the humidor temperature at about 70 degrees. That's a photo of my humidor on the left, and you can plainly see the e-hygrometer I use to tell me the temperature & humidity of my stash. In the photo, the readings in the hygrometer are off because I had just closed the box after having it open for a while.

The reason for maintaining a constant humidity is that cigars can dry out and disintegrate; conversely, if exposed to too much humidity they will become too moist and not draw well and smoke unevenly. The temperature is important because beetles can’t live below 75 degrees, and mold can develop in warmer temperature. Properly maintained cigars can be successfully stored and aged in a humidor for several years.

Humidors range from the fairly inexpensive to the uber-expensive. There is even a humidor “appliance” by a company called Liebherr, which not only electronically maintains a constant humidity, but also a constant temperature. The Liebherr Humidor has an elegant design with stainless steel on the outside, Spanish cedar on the inside and a glass door. It runs about $2500 and may be worth it if you live in hot weather, don’t cool the house while you’re away, and have some serious money on your cigar inventory.

No humidor?

An alternate storage method for the occasional smoker is to store the cigars in an airtight bag inside the vegetable compartment of the fridge. I would recommend the fridge method even if the cigars are in tubes.

There are also travel cases available, ranging from simple one-cigar tubes to cedar-lined cases for multiple cigars. I have a cedar-lined-telescopic-leather travel case that I fit in my briefcase or the outer pockets of my Barbour jacket. It can hold up to three cigars of various lengths and has proved very handy during travel. (It also has a great "wow" effect when I pull it out and offer someone a cigar.) That's a photo of it on the right. You can plainly see the Spanish cedar lining. The crystal tube you see is a humidifier tube I keep in it, when not in use.


Smoking the Cigar


The bottom line in lighting and smoking a cigar is that whatever works for you, works for you. Having said that, here are some basics to help you get started.

On cutting- The main thing is to cut a smooth opening without completely cutting off the cap and damaging the cigar’s structure. Aim for cutting where the domed head starts to curve towards the side. Don’t be afraid of making a mistake, that’s how you learn.

There are various cutting devices available to the novice. I use a guillotine tool because they’re easy to use (the cutting comes from both sides simultaneously). They’re also easy to find in tobacco shops and inexpensive to replace should they be misplaced. I keep an extra in my Dopp kit.

But there are various devices and methods, and I encourage you to find your own preferences on this. (I once knew a guy that cut his cigars with his Swiss Army Knife.)

On lighting the cigar- Purists swear by wooden matches, but there are also any number of cigar-specific lighters available.

The main concern here is that a cheap lighter might impart the taste of lighter fluid to the cigar. If you’re concerned about this, make your first puff outward to clear the cigar of any impurities caused by the lighter. I have never had a lighter impart a bad taste to a cigar, but I have had cheap third-world matches impart sulfur.

To light the cigar, hold it with the end (called the foot) at about a 45 degree angle to the flame and rotate the it to ensure an even burn all the way around. This is known as pre-char, or roasting, or toasting. (Some purists insist that the flame should not actually touch the cigar, but I usually let it.)

Once evenly charred, place the cap in your mouth and gently draw in air while still holding the flame to the foot. (Or again, puff out if concerned about impurities from the light.) As you smoke the cigar, keep rotating it to insure the ash burns evenly.

Keep in mind that a cigar may take up to two minutes to reach its flavor, and try not to over puff it while it’s reaching that flavor state.

The ash, in cylinder form, can grow up to several inches long in a quality cigar, and should fall with just a light tap. If the cigar goes out, you can re-light it, but it will not taste as good the second time its lite.

Finally, how do you tell when the cigar is done? Answer- When you decide it is. Inexperienced smokers (with no nicotine tolerance) should probably stop short at about ½ of a cigar to avoid getting ill effects. More experienced smokers often take the cigar all the way down to the ring area.

I hope this basic information encourages the reader to explore the many options available in cigars and their simple pleasure. For further research, I would recommend Googling the term “Cigar 101.” You’ll find information ranging from “why some cigars unravel,” to how to select a humidor and maintain it. I would also recommend picking up newsstand copies of Cigar Aficionado Magazine and Cigar Magazine.

Important Caveat-

With cigars, even though you don’t inhale, you do expose your mouth and esophagus to carcinogens. You also inhale the incidental smoke generated by the lit cigar. As cautionary examples, you can look up two historical noteworthy heavy cigar smokers that died from oral cancer- General Ulysses S. Grant and Doctor Sigmund Freud. Also, for more information on documented health risks, click the link below.

National Cancer Institute on Cigars

My personal belief is that they should be enjoyed in moderation. What moderation means, I’ll leave to for the reader to decide. I believe each individual person is best suited to determine what’s in their own enlightened self-interest; and not the “nanny state.”

-John P.







"Living well is the best revenge." - George Herbert

Finally, a little humor on the Z-Plus Lighter Insert for the American Zippo

Easter Day with a Cuban gift; men’s stuff part sixteen

I celebrated Easter with a Cuban “Romeo Y Julieta Short Churchill Tubo” - pictured left. It was a gift from a relative (Mr. T) during Lent and I was overjoyed to get it.

I’m not sure if he researched it prior to gifting, but he hit a home run with this present. This Short Churchill was the top rated robusto cigar in the February issue of Cigar Aficionado Magazine. The filler, binder and wrapper are from Cuba, and it scored a near perfect 93.

A robusto is defined as a short-fat cigar, usually around 5 1/2 inches long with a large 50 or so ring gauge. It's supposed to be more intense than average, and recommended as an after dinner cigar. This Romeo Y Julieta was mild and pleasant, not the least bit overwhelming or harsh. I’m happy to report that the tube did its job and delivered the cigar in perfect condition.

Thanks Mr. T!

-John P.


For more info on cigars, visit my post "On Cigars, men's stuff part thirteen."

Last chance for white bucks? men's stuff part fourteen

Labor Day is almost upon us, and so every good man asks himself the yearly question: Is it OK to wear my white bucks beyond the traditional end of summer?

The official answer would appear to be yes. I’m told that the 17th Edition of Emily Post's Etiquette, gives the go-ahead for wearing white after Labor Day.

Here in Central Texas the question may be non sequitur as we have only two seasons: summer, and summer will be right back. Because of this my wife is of the opinion that, in Texas at least, the deadline should be extended to Columbus Day.

So I'm leaving my white bucks out, at least for a little while longer. At worst I may be considered an unpolished eccentric by traditionalist, at best I may get my photo in The Sartorialist blog. ;)

-JP

"...he knew that to be careless in dress and manner required more confidence than to be careful. But carelessness was for his children."
- Winter Dreams, F. Scott Fitzgerald


PS- But you might want to start thinking about waxing your Barbour if you haven't done it yet. The wax is easier to work with while the weather is still warm.

My love affair with watches, men's stuff part sixteen

My love affair with watches began in the 4h grade when I received my first Timex wristwatch. It had a simple white face encased in stainless steel with black Arabic numbers, and its only "complication" was a sweep seconds hand. I remember carefully synchronizing my Timex with the school bell so I could count out the seconds for the end of the day, or secretly timing events with the sweep second hand.

In Junior High, for Christmas, I received my second watch. It was a digital Texas Instruments with red LED (like the one pictured above). You had to press the button to display the time, and the red numbers were so dim you couldn’t make them out in daylight, but it didn’t matter. In my mind I was James Bond. I had seen Roger Moore wearing the Hamilton Pulsar in the 1973 movie Live and Let Die and I thought digital was the height of cool. From there, my watch collection just began to expand; and today, it’s not unusual for me to strike up conversations with fellow watch aficionados on airplanes or social situations.

My love affair with time pieces continues. Below are some blog posts I wrote about some of my watches:

The Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso, men's stuff part twelve

The Seiko Professional Divers Watch, men's stuff part ten

The Hamilton Jazz Master, men's stuff part eight

The Rolex Submariner, men's stuff part three

(Photos- The top photo is what my Texas Instruments Watch looked like. Sadly that watch disappeared years ago, so the snapshot is just off the net. The lower photo however is my actual Rolex Submariner in its case.)

WatchTime Magazine - This is, in my opinion, the best watch publication for people wishing to learn more about the watch industry. Unlike many other watch magazines, WatchTime is extremely well written. It doesn’t just have a lot of pretty photographs with rewrites of company marketing copy.

Portero.com – This is a legitimate site for collectors wishing to buy or sell their watches.

-JP

The Seiko Professional Divers Watch, men's stuff part ten

If I had to choose one watch from my collection for endurance and serviceability, this Seiko Divers would be the watch. It’s been with me in multiple environments- in deserts, in forests, in saltwater and freshwater, and in the cold of both the Korean DMZ and Alaska. I was also wearing it in 1986 when I broke my leg on the worst airborne jump of my military career. My ankle required some metal implants to repair it, but the watch was hardly scratched.

Today, its roughest mission is to the gym.

It’s a quartz watch, and the second hand begins to mark off two-seconds intervals when the battery needs changing. It’s waterproof to 200 meters or approximately 656 feet (which means it can go places I can’t go); and has a unidirectional rotating bezel, with the first twenty minutes highlighted in bright red. The day-date is at the three o’clock position, and the day can be set in either English or Spanish. The crown, located at the 4 o'clock position, has a very efficient curving crown guard.


I’ve lost track of how many times I’ve replaced the flat rubber bracelet, and despite its age, the luminous hands and markers are still visible in low lighting. I have had the jeweler offer to switch out the scratched bezel, but I like the memories the scratches represent. Remarkably, the crystal is unscratched.

Today, Seiko offers many versions of this watch in both quartz and mechanical models. Despite the fact that some watch aficionados look down upon them, I highly recommend them. They’re durable, inexpensive and don’t have to be babied. (I actually had a case of 5.56 ammunition dropped on mine once, without damage.)

Seiko's most recent technical accomplishment was the development of a space watch for billionaire Richard Garriott that was worn during a space walk outside the International Space Station.

And while strolling down memory lane, here’s the oldest watch in my collection. It’s the Timex I wore in Army Basic Training right out of high school. I remember I bought it with the intention of it being a disposable watch; but miraculously it’s still with me. It not only survived several Army schools, but it also outlived several so-called G-Shock watches and an untold number of GI issue field watches. Today, I still use it while clearing and burning brush or doing outside work. I think every true watch enthusiast has at least one Timex in his collection.

This last photo is of my father’s last field watch, which I inherited after he passed away recently. During my Army career, he developed a fondness for OD Green field watches. As a result I would always buy him a new field watch for Christmas from the PX. When I left the service, the tradition continued and I would always include a field watch with his Christmas packages when he needed a replacement. He loved to putter and work outside and was very hard on his watches. This Orvis version of the GI watch was the last field watch he owned. Prior to end-of-year, I need to clean it up and replace the strap which is very worn due to dad’s continual outdoor use.


Update: Below is my father's Orvis field watch after I cleaned it up and placed a new NATO Nylon Strap on it.


John P.


If you're into watches, check out my other watch related blog posts:

 Hamilton Jazz Master.

 Rolex Submariner.

 Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso

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Geo F. Trumper on Facebook, men's stuff part nine

Geo F. Trumper, considered by many to be the apex in men's wet shaving gear, has posted a link to my wet shaving post on their facebook page.

-JP

The Hamilton Jazz Master, men's stuff part eight

I have a new Hamilton Jazz Master Chrono, a gift from my wife. It’s a beautiful watch with a classic masculine appearance, reminiscent of the 1950’s.

The Hamilton Watch Company has an interesting history. It was founded in 1882 in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, but its real claim to fame came with World War II. During the war, the company stopped making watches for civilians, and concentrated all of its production towards the war effort. As a result, Hamilton became synonymous with the GI Field Watch. To this day, Hamilton carries a line of field watches and military style watches under its Khaki collection, however it is no longer American owned. In the 1990s Hamilton became a wholly owned subsidiary of the Swatch Group along with Omega.

In the past I had considered getting a Hamilton watch, but I couldn’t really get excited over the idea of field watch. I have owned too many field watches over the years.

Recently however, I noticed a collection of Hamilton watches in the window of a jewelry store and the Jazz Master Chronograph Auto caught my eye, specifically the rose gold case model. I went inside to take a closer look at it and was pleased with what I saw. The only flaw I saw was that the rose gold model came with a brown crocodile strap, and I prefer a black strap with rose gold.

That evening, I mentioned the watch to my wife and promptly forgot about it. She knew that I have been considering a new watch purchase- the IWC Portuguese Chrono, or the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso -but it hasn’t been an immediate pending decision. So imagine my joyful surprise when she gave it to me on the morning of a special event along with my morning coffee. (YES!) My wife even had them switch out the croc wristband from brown to black, so if it was perfect.


I’ve worn it now for about three weeks and have been very pleased with it. It has a solid feel to it, like a quality watch should. The chronograph (stopwatch) goes up to 12 hours, which is ample time for measuring flights and daily tasks. It has a dressier appearance than my Rolex Submariner and once I adjusted and stretched out the croc leather band, the Jazz Master was a comfortable fit despite its large size. (In its thickness, it reminds me of a Panerai watch.)

On the back, it has a sapphire crystal display so that you can see the inner workings, and “Hamilton “ is etched on the rotar. The automatic wind up feature (by motion) works fairly well. I’ve only had to manually wind it a little between wears.

The crocodile leather strap is adjusted and secured via a double butterfly clasp, and an “H” is etched on the outside of the clasp.


The chronograph controls and readouts are pretty standard. The outer-upper-right button (above the crown) starts and stops the stopwatch, and the outer-lower-right button clears the time. What is normally the sweep second hand on the face, is in fact the seconds-hand for the chronograph. The normal time sweep second hand is in one of the small inner dials. The other two inner dials keep track of elapsed minutes and hours.

In the close up photo, notice that the chronograph buttons are curved and serve as "de facto" crown guards.

Because of the three inner dials, the date function is moved to just below the 4 on the face, and yet the watch face remains classically balanced in appearance. The date can be set by either moving the hours forward with the crown, or faster by pushing an indented button (called a pusher) on the inner side of the case by the 10 on the face.


My one caveat is that Hamilton claims the watch is water resistant to 100 meters, but I wouldn’t put it to the test. It’s definitely a dress watch. I have a hard time picturing somebody actually diving into the ocean or pool with it (especially if left on the croc wristband). I wouldn’t trust the seals on the chronograph buttons, and saltwater could easily harm the finish.

Overall, the watch is classical in design, masculine, understated, and comfortable despite its large size. It was a great gift and I’m very pleased with it. Thanks hon!

JP

“Some people think luxury is the opposite of poverty. It is not. It is the opposite of vulgarity.” Coco Chanel

SPECS-
REFERENCE: H326460
NAME: JAZZMASTER CHRONO AUTO
MOVEMENT: Swiss Automatic Mechanical ETA 7753
POWER RESERVE: 42 Hours
WATER RESISTANCE: 10 ATM or 100 Meters (But I wouldn't put it to the test.)
REF STRAP: brown croc leather # H600.326.105 (NOTE- I changed mine out for Black)

A Minimalist Approach, men's stuff part seven

Some blogs I follow have started a commentary on what a man should carry on his everyday person. Some men insist on being loaded for bear, others prefer a minimalist approach.

I fall more under the minimalist category, or as my wife commented, "A functional minimalist." Here are my choices and their reasons-

1. A pen, a black Mont Blanc my wife gave me for my birthday. So that I don’t have to touch the germy pens offered at restaurants or stores.
2. Business Cards & Personal Cards in a thin leather card case; because you never know who you may run into, plus they’re useful for jotting down notes.
3. Reading glasses, an unfortunate “must” since I turned forty.
4. My mobile phone, a small Blackberry Pearl, carried in my sport jacket- or left in my car, briefcase, or desk if I’m not wearing a jacket. (I dislike carrying it in my pant pockets.) The Blackberry has my complete schedule, tasks list and rolodex on it and has become a valuable tool.
5. Wallet, a thin leather money clip, containing two credit cards, drivers license, health insurance card (for the wallet autopsy by EMS) plus ones and Fives for tipping. Again, the objective is no bulk, and carried in my right-front pant pocket.
6. At least one dog biscuit. They say money can't buy you love, but a dog biscuit can.

My main predicament is always what to do with car keys. To that end I like to wear a sport coat because it makes it easier to spread the personal items around thereby avoiding bulk in any one pocket. Of course a better solution would be to have a car and driver and never touch a steering wheel again, but that’s an entirely different conversation.

(Above, G approves of my "functional" minimalist approach- so long as I keep scratching his chin. Below, my everyday gear minus the dog biscuit- which G ate just before the snap was taken.)

Golf Etiquette, men's stuff part six

(Photo Left- For Christmas my wife gave me a travel bag for my golf clubs, which I’m getting some use of. I’m happy to report that so far the airlines haven’t been able to break the tube case and damage my clubs.)

On a recent stay at my parents’ house, I found an old Golf Magazine from January 2005. One article in particular stuck with me, “How to be the most popular guy in your group,” by Michael Corcoran. And while it had many good points on golf etiquette, here is a short list of seven which every man should consider:

1. On monetary bets- Be considerate, especially if someone is out of their league (and do it without naming names). Limit the maximum loss to $50 bucks or so. Politely put a muzzle on anyone getting obnoxious with large stakes.

2. Pick up the ball- If you’re hitting eight on the hole, pick up your ball. Take a snowman on your card, and be considerate. Don’t slow down the play for your group or the group behind you while you “quintuple-bogey putt.”

3. Buy the first round from the refreshment cart- This is a nice gesture which the other members in your group will appreciate. Don’t just ask if they want anything, but rather make the offer specific- “I’m buying. What do you guys want, beer, soda, candy bar?” And tip the cart girl appropriately so that you’ll see her again.

4. Be humble. Don’t offer swing tips- If someone is having an off day and does plead for help, defuse his frustration with humor. Corcoran suggests using the old Sam Snead line, “You’ve got just one problem- you stand too close to the ball after you’ve hit it.” He also suggests you “remind him that no matter how badly he feels, Greg Norman felt worse.”
Which leads to-

5. Keep a sense of humor- If you’re the one having an off day, don’t be afraid to laugh at yourself. Use humor to keep yourself loose and not ruin the day for everyone else. Corcoran gave some great quips:
-When you leave a putt 10 feet short- “How’d that stay out?”
-When you airmail the green by 50 yards- “Bite! Bite!”
I’m sure you can think of your own favorite quips as well.

6. Give a hand- After the final putt on the 18th, give everyone a smile and a firm handshake; look them in the eye and tell them how much you enjoyed the round. If you’re a traditionalist and wearing a cap, doff it.

7. Pay up- If you lost, pony up your money promptly. If you won, win with grace and offer to use the winnings to cover a round of drinks or lunch.


Conversely, Corcoran made a list of Don’ts. Here are the top five I selected:

1. Don’t call a rules violation when you’re not playing in a tournament. Trust me, it won't impress, it will annoy.

2. Don’t take a second practice swing, and a third, with a divot.

3. Don’t hit on the cart girl. It doesn’t make you look cool, just creepy; and will only serve to keep her away from your group when you need more beer.

4. Don’t linger on a green practicing a putt you missed when the group has moved on to the next tee.

5. Don’t impress your group by making your mobile phone (tackily clipped to your belt) play “I’m Allright” from Caddyshack. This action alone will ensure your status as a single for life.

JP

How to Wax your Barbour Beaufort Jacket

OK, a lot of hits and questions on how to wax a Barbour.

If you’re only now getting around to it, you will need to invest a little bit more time and effort into the process.

Ideally the jacket should have already been cleaned and re-waxed during a hot summer day. The hot sun and weather keeps the wax melted and hence easier to work with. In the fall or winter, the wax keeps congealing and makes the entire effort more taxing.

The supplies you will need are: a bowl of ice water, a sponge, a tin of Barbour Wax (pictured in this post), a pot of hot water to boil the Wax tin in, an old cotton t-shirt, and a hairdryer.

You will also need a good work area with a table (that won’t be affected by wax) and a place to hang the jacket. (I use a screened in back porch with a tiled breakfast table.)

The process is the same for a sylkoil jacket.

Step one, clean the jacket. Put the jacket on a work table, and using a bowl of ice water and a sponge, wipe down the outside of the jacket. The ice water keeps the wax on the jacket hardened and helps the sponge separate the dirt out. (Don’t use soap of any kind. Don’t put the jacket in the washing machine. I'm told that would remove the wax coating permanently.)

Step two, open the tin of wax and boil it in a pot of water over a stove, until the wax is melted.

Step three, using an old cotton t-shirt, work the melted wax onto the jacket, paying particular care to the seams, pockets and edges. (This is the part that’s harder in winter because the wax keeps solidifying on you). Ideally you should keep the wax tin in the hot water while working in order to keep the wax melted.

Keep the wax away from the corduroy collar, inside of the jacket, and inside of the pockets.

Keep your actions small and controlled so as to not make a mess. Clean as you go.

Step four, once you have re-waxed all the surface, hang the jacket up and use the blow dryer to re-melt the wax on the jacket and give it an even finish. This also gives the jacket a nice shiny fresh look.

Hang the jacket and allow it dry overnight undisturbed.

Please be aware the jacket will bleed excess wax for a short while after being re-waxed. So be courteous to others in this regard. For example if a stewardess asks if she can hang up your jacket, decline, and store it in the overhead bin over your own stuff. That way you don’t get wax on somebody’s sport coat or suit jacket.

Darwin Alert- On a humorous note, I once read a post from some person claiming to have thrown their waxed Barbour in the dryer and making a tremendous mess. Don’t go there. Use a hair dryer.

Purchasing Barbour Wax Dressing- In the U.S., the easiest way to get a tin of Barbour Wax is to log onto Orvis.com , and type in “Barbour” in the search field. That will bring up a page of Barbour products which should include the wax. The official Orvis description is: “Barbour Thornproof Dressing (SI8981)” The current price is $12.00. Instructions for re-waxing the jacket are written on the can.

Ongoing Cleaning- During the winter you may want to clean your jacket. Just repeat the cleaning step with the sponge and the bowl of ice water. Afterwards, use a blow dryer to dry it and to even out the wax again. You’ll get the nice shiny gloss finish once more.

Finally a warning note, it's too late to send your jacket back to Barbour for re-waxing. If you send your Barbour back this late in the year, you probably won’t see your jacket back until summer 2008. Those guys are slow.

John P.

(For related content read September 3rd 2006 post, "The Barbour Beaufort Jacket, men's stuff part one.")

Click here for a reader's question on smell.

Acqua Di Parma, men's stuff part five

For Christmas 2006, my wife gave me a new cologne, Acqua Di Parma. I had run across some references to it during hobby reading, and I was curious.

Acqua Di Parma is an Italian citrus based scent first made in 1916. After many years of being relegated to an isolated niche product, the fragrance was purchased in 1994 by three investors. The new owners then expanded distribution to reach the eager dollars of the Hoi Polloi. The company claims it was “THE” cologne among the beautiful people in the 30s and 50s, and drops the names of Cary Grant and Audrey Hepburn. (Of course the fact that they’re both dead makes corroboration difficult at best.)

For my part, I’ve taken a fancy to it. It’s more declarative than my beloved Trumper’s Extract of Lime, but to its credit it does tastefully dissipate when properly applied. I’ve worn it for the month of January and I haven’t tired of it.

The package paper describes it as combining more than ten natural ingredients (no knock-off lab synthetics) to produce "smooth notes of Sicilian citrus, rose, & lavender with base notes of oriental woods." And to its credit, it's not boring like say the traditional (and overly known) prep scent of Eau Sauvage. It's definitely something different and has the flair Italian craftsmanship is known for.

If you’re looking for an alternative, I would recommend giving Acqua Di Parma a try.

The only caveat I’ve had is that it came in a spray bottle, and hence impractical for air travel with the new security limitations on liquids. If you pack it in your wet pack with your checked luggage, the altitude may affect the spray pump. I’ll have to see what is available in plain bottle format for future use.

JP

(For related subject matter see September 16, 2006 entry, “On Wet Shaving, men’s stuff part two.)

The TR250, men's stuff part four

I owned a TR250 (Triumph 250) in the mid-1980s and it was the funnest car I have owned. (And yes, it was even more fun than my Saab.) I bought it from Casner Imports in El Paso while assigned to Ft. Bliss, and I sold it while I was in college due to concerns over high maintenance cost. I dearly regret selling it.

The TR250 was a one year production car of approx 8,000 units in 1968. It was the transition between the under powered TR4 and the peppier TR6. The car had an in-line six cylinder engine with growling dual carburetors, and 15 inch Michelins to hug the road as you accelerated. The fact that it was a convertible only added to the fun.

My other car at the time was my old high school car, a 1972 Mustang Mach 1, Sprint Fast-Back edition. It was your basic muscle car. It could go like a bat out of hell, but God help you if you needed to change direction. The Mach handled like a heavy truck on high speed turns and I'm lucky I didn't kill myself in it.

The TR250 by contrast, could turn on a dime at higher speeds. It was not only fast, but it hugged the road like it was on rails. I felt in absolute control of the vehicle as I would put it through its paces on tight winding mountain roads. I think that was one of the key reasons I fell in love with it. The other key emotional response came from the cockpit smell of leather, wood, and the engine. I wasn’t removed from the driving experience in a plastic shell.

Unfortunately this beautiful machine came with a price. As anyone who has ever owned one of these 1960s convertibles can tell you, they’re temperamental machines who need a seasoned specialized mechanic and pricey repair parts. In short, it’s not the initial price that gets you; it’s the ongoing bank account drain.

I recently cruised the internet for TR250s and was dismayed by the high pricing of restored models and the absolute state of disrepair of the based price ones. To buy one today would have to be an absolute act of love. It would be cheaper to buy, say, a used Porsche and face less repair issues. You also wouldn’t have the issue of finding a capable mechanic, or rare parts.

I’m afraid that for me at least, that ship has sailed.

-JP

Specs for the TR250:

ENGINE- Inline six-cylinder, cast iron block, cylinder head, overhead valves. Horsepower @ RPM-111 @ 4,500.  Torque @ RPM-152 lbs.ft. @ 3,000.  Fuel System, Twin Stromberg CD175 carburetors.  Front Engine, rear-wheel drive.

TRANSMISSION- Four-speed manual, plus reverse.

BODY- Steel body over steel frame with cruciform brace.

TIRES- 15 x 6 inches

WEIGHT & SIZE- Weight 2,350 pounds. Wheelbase 88 inches.  Length 153.6 inches.  Height 50 inches.

PERFORMANCE- Zero to Sixty MPH in 10.6 seconds.  Zero to One-Hundred MPH in 39 seconds.  Top Speed 107 MPH. (To put this in perspective, at that time the average car went from zero to sixty in about 15 or 16 seconds plus.)

PRICE
Cost new in 1968- (esti) $3,395.

The Rolex Submariner, men's stuff part three

Bond: You expect me to talk Goldfinger?

Goldfinger: No Mr. Bond, I expect you to die!

As a boy I saw the Rolex Submariner watch for the first time in the opening scenes of Goldfinger. In it, Sean Connery sets explosives at the bad guys’ base while in scuba gear, changes into white-dinner jacket, and then nonchalantly waits for the charges to go off. His clothing changed from commando-action-gear to sophisticate evening wear, but the watch remained the same; a Stainless Steel Rolex Submariner. I was hooked.


I’m not alone in this. If you carry on a conversation with a Submariner owner long enough, eventually you will hear some similar James Bond childhood influence.

The watch is about the size of an Oreo Cookie (40mm) and fits comfortably on the wrist despite its thickness. It’s water proof to 300 meters or 1,000 feet. (This means it can go places you can’t go.) It has a uni-directional black bezel to mark elapsed diving time. It also has an extension link on the stainless steel bracelet so that it can be worn over a wetsuit.

Most men will never use the diving features. (Lord knows I haven’t.)

What I do use frequently is the bezel, which is marked in minutes, to monitor elapsed time on flights or tasks. The glow-in-the-dark-face is also easy to read in low lighting situations.

Its technical specifications, while impressive, are of little relevance to aficionados. Instead, if you had to define its appeal in one blurb, it would this- the watch is manliness defined, period.

The watch is unaffected and masculine. It runs the gamut world wide. I’ve seen it on the wrist of a successful stockbroker in Manhatten; and I’ve seen it on the wrist of a bus driver in Rome. The Stainless Steel Submariner is the ultimate go-to-watch for a man. It can fit every occasion. It goes well with every outfit, every activity, and doesn't look ostentatious.

Aside from the basic stainless steel Submariner, there are also Submariner versions with yellow gold embellishments and blue faces, as well as a 50th anniversary model with a green bezel. As a purest, I’ve always held men who wear gold modified models as suspect. A man wanting an ornate dress watch would be better served to purchase a gold Oyster Perpetual Day Date or similar IWC, Patek Phillip, Zenith or Jaeger-LeCoultre offering.  (And please don't get me started with the after-market-bling-jobs I've seen in which diamonds or other precious stones are added to the watch face. Trust me, they don't impress.)

As a point of humor on this, I was once in the middle of a software sales presentation with the owner of a business and his key subordinates, when one his lieutenants cut in, “I don’t know boss, this guy is wearing a Rolex. I think he’s going to take us downtown on the price.”

The owner replied, “No, No, it’s OK. It’s only stainless steel. It’s the jackasses with the gold ones that you have to worry about.”

John P.

Postscript-

OK let’s answer the basic question: Is the Rolex Submariner really a super 007 action watch?  Is it in fact virtually indestructible? The evidence says yes.  Remember it is stainless steel, and waterproof to 300 meters.  That translates to about 433 pounds per square inch on not only the metal case, but the crystal as well.

However there are two caveats.

The first is that if you plan to use this watch for business wear, you need to be aware that the stainless steel on the Submariner will scratch, especially on the wrist bracelet. If you have nice things, you have to take care of them.

The second caveat is more important. Like Achilles, this watch does have a weakness – the winding crown.  While screwed in place, the crown guard does a great job of protecting it, but while unscrewed (for winding or changing the time) it is the one delicate part of the watch you will come in contact with.  Remember to treat it gently. This will save you the embarrassment and expense of an unnecessary repair.

An added benefit, chicks dig the watch

Labradors dig the watch too. When I can’t find my Submariner I know it’s because my Chocolate Lab “borrowed” it. (She is after all, a "watch dog.")


My Chocolate Lab is a little far-sighted resulting in nose prints on the crystal. Fortunately she periodically licks them off. (The watch reads 7 pm, that's really 2 am in dog time.)


"So when are we going to get a Rolex Pepsi GMT like Tom Selleck’s?"


Detail close up of my Submariner, sans nose prints, next to my wedding ring for scale.

My Love Affair with Watches, men's stuff part 16

My Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso 

My Hamilton Jazz Master

My Seiko Divers Watch

-J.P.